Saturday, 12 June 2021

PELOPONNESE

Text by Nikos Aivalis, research by Elpida Zografidou, translation by Eva Trombetas

Peloponnese, the land of myths, the land of unstoppable history from ancient times until today, the land that is the heart of Greece, the land that gave birth to heroes and heroines, demigods and sages, the land where great kingdoms like Mycenae were born, the land that contributed the most to all the struggles of Hellenism. But it is not only a land with endless history, but also a land of endless beauty as picturesque villages, mountainous winter destinations, beaches and coastal paradises, forests, waterfalls, caves and much more, along with archeological sites, historical monuments, historical churches and castles, and much more. What is the Peloponnese after all?

Peloponnese

As our page says, Peloponnese is like a proud and bright star in the clear blue sky of Greece (hence the name of our page En Astron - ena astro = one star). We will try to see the Peloponnese from a historical, cultural, mythological and nature-loving point of view. Peloponnese is a huge piece of land, the southernmost of mainland Greece, which is connected to the rest of Greece only by the Isthmus of Corinth and the Rio Antirrio bridge in Patras. It is a peninsula and one of the nine geographical regions of Greece. The area of the Peloponnese is about 21,439 square kilometers, while its total population is about 1,086,935 inhabitants according to the 2011 census. In this piece of land, there are seven prefectures: central prefecture of Arcadia (capital Tripoli), northwest prefecture of Achaea (capital Patras), northeast prefecture of Corinthia (capital Corinth), west prefecture of Elis (capital Pyrgos), east prefecture of Argolis (capital Nafplio), southwest prefecture of Messenia (capital Kalamata) and finally, southeast prefecture of Laconia (capital Sparta).

map of Greece

Peloponnese is bordered west by the Ionian sea, east by the Aegean sea (Myrtos and Argolic gulf), north by the Corinthian gulf and the gulf of Patras, while to the south of it is the Mediterranean sea. The most important capes are of Maleas in Epidaurus of Limira, Laconia, of Akrita Pylias in Messenia, of Skyllaios in Aderes, Argolis, of Rio in Patras, Achaea, and of Tainaros in Mani, Laconia, which is the southernmost part of mainland Greece and of Balkan peninsula. The highest mountain of the Peloponnese is the famous Taygetos, with an altitude of 2,407 meters, which starts from Arcadia and divides in the middle Messenia and Laconia. Other big mountains are: mount Panacheikos, which is located southwest of Patras with an altitude of 1,926 meters, south of Panacheikos the mount Erymanthos, which has an altitude of 2,224 meters, mount Aphrodite between Achaea and Arcadia, with an altitude of 1,456 meters, the ancient mount Lykaion between Arcadia and Messenia, with an altitude of 1,419 meters, the Aroania mountains between Achaea and Corinthia with an altitude of 2,355 meters, Ziria in Corinthia, which is the second highest mountain in the Peloponnese, with an altitude of 2,376 meters, Mainalo in Arcadia with an altitude of 1,981 meters altitude, Oligyrtos between Argolis and Arcadia with an altitude of 1,935 meters and Parnonas between Arcadia and Laconia with an altitude of 1,936 meters.

Taygetos, the highest mountain in the Peloponesse

The main plains of the Peloponnese are the following: the plain of Elis, the plain of Messenia, the plain of Argolis and the plain of Elos in Laconia. The largest mountain plateaus are those of Mantineia, Alea and Tegea in Arcadia, as well as Feneos and Stymfalia in Corinthia. The Peloponnese can be happy because it has a lot of water in its inward parts, nevertheless it has a few big rivers. The largest river in the Peloponnese is the famous Alpheios river, which starts from the Megalopolis of Arcadia and ends in the gulf of Kyparissia, in Elis, covering a distance of 110 kilometers. The second largest river is the mythical Eurotas, which starts from Megalopolis and ends in the Laconic gulf, after covering a distance of 82 kilometers. The Glafkos river starts from mount Panacheikos, so that after a distance of 26 kilometers, it ends at the gulf of Patras. Pinios originates from mount Erymanthos, so that after covering a distance of 80 kilometers, it ends up in the Ionian sea, through Elis. There is also Neda, one of the few rivers in Greece with a female name. Neda starts from Lykaion in Arcadia, so that after a distance of 32 kilometers it ends up in the gulf of Kyparissia, between Elis and Messenia.

Alpheios, the largest river in the Peloponnese

Although the Peloponnese looks like an island by itself, it has its own islands, some of which are of unique beauty, such as Sapientza, an island southwest of Messenia, which is heartshaped, of unique natural beauty, while it has been declared Preserved Monument of Nature, as it is also protected by Natura 2000. To the east there is an island, which has nothing to envy from exotic places and their tropical beaches. An island that for many people, probably has the best beaches in Greece. We are talking about Elafonisos, which is located at the southeastern edge of Laconia. Elafonisos has two of the most famous beaches in Greece, those of Simos and Sarakinikos. In fact, they are considered to be the most beautiful twin beach in Europe. There is another island, which may belong to the Ionian Islands and administratively to Attica, but geographically it belongs to the Peloponnese. We are talking about the beautiful Kythira, which are located south of Elafonisos and Laconia.

Sapientza, the heartshaped island

The name "Peloponnese" comes from Pelopas, ancient king of Achaea. Another name of the Peloponnese, is the medieval name Morias, which has roots from the mulberry tree (mouria = mulberry), due to the extensive cultivation of this tree in the area. In the depths of antiquity, according to Homer, it was called Argos, while even further back in time, it was called Pelasgia, because of the Pelasgians, who were the ancestors of the Arcadians, something that Pausanias tells us, as Pelasgos, king of Arcadia and Argos, had as a son Lycaeon, who later had a son named Arcadas. The ancient Greek tribes that inhabited this place, were the ancient Pelasgians, the Mycenaeans, who were one of the largest forces in the Mediterranean, the Achaeans, the Dorians, the Ionians, as well as the Leleges, who according to Pausanias, were the ancestors of the Lacedaemonians and the Messinians, as Lelegas had as a son, Eurotas, who had a daughter named Sparta, who married Lacedaemon, son of Zeus and Taygetis. There are findings proving that the Peloponnese was inhabited at least from prehistoric times, while according to Pausanias in his work "Arcadia", the Peloponnese had the oldest city in the world, Lycosura in Arcadia, which as he mentions, was the oldest city of all cities that have ever existed on a continental or island region, the first city to see the sunlight, and constituted a model for the creation of other cities. Characteristic of the Arcadians antiquity is the fact that they were given the nickname "pre-Lunar", that is, that they are so ancient that there was not even the moon when they existed as natives of the Peloponnese.

Lycosura, the oldest city in the world

One of the largest civilizations developed in the Peloponnese was that of the Mycenaeans, who came from Mycenae, just outside Argos. Famous by Homer, for their campaign in Troy. They were a dominant force in the area, which had managed to gather all the Greek kingdoms under its protection. Famous merchants and navigators, we find Mycenaean findings from one end of the Mediterranean to the other. But the Peloponnese also later on showed enormous forces. The famous Sparta, home of the most famous warriors of the world, the Spartans. A city that gave birth to famous heroes and heroines, such as Leonidas, Evryviadis, Agisilaos, Vrasidas, Lysander, Gorgo, Kyniska, while from here came the beautiful Helen of Sparta, as well as the Dioscuri Castor and Polydefkis. It was a superpower of its time, taking part in almost all the Greek wars, in the campaign against Troy, in Thermopylae, in the naval battle of Salamina, in Plataees and countless other battles that made the Spartans cause fear and terror in their enemies. But Sparta was not just a war camp as many people mistakenly want to present it to us and they certainly did not throw their children in Kaiadas cave, for example the lame Agisilaos, while modern research by archaeologists has shown that such a thing did not happen. From Sparta came wise men as well as poets, a great example being Chilon the Lacedaemonian, one of the seven wise men of antiquity. Also the great Lycurgus, the most famous legislator, whose work was the later famous Sparta. Tyrtaeus, the great poet of the Spartans, as well as many other men and women, wrote golden pages in Greek history. It is characteristic that the Spartan women were the freest women of the ancient Greek world, while the Spartans were famous for their austerity and simplicity.

ancient Sparta

Another famous force was Argos. Argos is one of the most ancient cities in the world, which continues to exist to this day. Characteristic is the omnipotence of Argos in the Homeric years, so that all the Peloponnesians are called Argians, while even more characteristic is that the Macedonians come from Argos, with the most famous the dynasty of Argeades, with their most famous descendant, Alexander the Great himself. Also from here came the most famous demigod of all time, Hercules, son of Zeus and Alcmene who went to Thebes from Argos, granddaughter of the other famous hero, Perseus, who was also son of Zeus, with mother Danae, daughter of Akrisios, the king of Argos. Nearby, in Mycenae, whice were founded by Perseus, is where Agamemnon and Menelaus came from. However, in the following centuries, Argos remained one of the largest forces in Greece.

Mycenae, the gate of lions and the cyclopean walls

Ancient Corinth, a city so cosmopolitan and powerful, that it became one of the largest commercial centers of the ancient world, while it became also one of the richest cities in the Mediterranean. From the leading forces of the Greeks in the wars against the Persians and the birthplace of Periander the Corinthian, one of the seven wise men of antiquity. The mythical hero Vellerophon, son of the Corinthian king Glafkos and Evrynomi, daughter of the king of Megara, Nisos, also came from there. Characteristic is the importance of Corinth and the respect it inspired, so that all the councils of the Greeks who had a pan-Hellenic tone, took place there.

ancient Corinth

Eliki, an ancient and powerful city of Achaea, metropolis of many colonies in the Mediterranean. The city was located near Aigio and sank in a lagoon. It took its name from the mythical Eliki, daughter of Selinountas, who was the son of Ionas. It was the largest city of Achaea, while it took part in the Trojan War, on the side of Agamemnon. It was an important commercial and cultural center of antiquity, as it minted its own coins.
 
ancient Eliki

Tegea, one of the most powerful cities of the Arcadians. An ancient city, founded by Tegeas, son of Lycaeon and grandson of Pelasgos. It was the seat of the mythical kings of Arcadia, such as Agapinoras, who campaigned in Troy, and later colonized Paphos in Cyprus. Characteristic of the Tegeans was their bravery, which made even the Spartans honor them for it and although the two cities were initially at war, they later became loyal allies. The city had become very strong and very prosperous, as it minted its own currency. It also took part in all the struggles of the Greeks against the Persians. Tegea gave birth to famous heroes and heroines, such as king Agapinoras, the poet Anyti, the tragic poet Aristarchus, the philosopher Antisthenes, the hero Agaios who had taken part in the Argonaut campaign, the beautiful and famous runner Atalanta, the all-wise teacher of Socrates, Diotima, while according to mythology the god Pan, the tragomorphic god of nature, also came from here.

Tegea, temple of Aleas Athena

Pylos, the ancient city of Messenia, birthplace of the mythical Nestor. Pylos was one of the most powerful cities of the Mycenaean kingdom, with great economic and military power. Its power was so great that it did not even have walls to protect the city during Mycenaean rule.

Pylos, palace of Nestor

Of course in this historical overview how one of the most important places of the Peloponnese, Greece and the world, the ancient Olympia in Elis could be missing. A place dedicated to Zeus, home of the Olympic Games, which from the depths of antiquity, continue to exist to this day, being the most important sporting event in the world. According to the legend, the Olympic Games started from Hercules in honor of Zeus. There in Olympia was also an ivory statue of Zeus, a work of Pheidias, which was one of the seven wonders of the world. Infinite number of Greeks were glorified in this place, as it was the most important event, to such an extent that during the games all wars stopped.

ancient Olympia

But the history of the Peloponnese does not end in ancient times. Even during Roman rule, many cities continued to thrive. Even later, in the Byzantine years, the Peloponnese was glorified. Castles were built, today being monuments of unique beauty. The castle of Karytaina in Arcadia, the castle of Patras, the castle of Araklovo in Elis, the beautiful castle of Monemvasia in Laconia, the castle of Mouchli in Arcadia, the castle of Bezenikos also in Arcadia, the castle of coast Astros in Kynouria, the castle of Oleni in Elis and of course the castle city of Mystras in Laconia, the great city of Byzantium, from where Constantine Paleologos, the last emperor of Byzantium, left to defend Constantinople against the Ottomans.

Mystras

Of course churches and monasteries of that time have written their own history in the Peloponnese. The Agia Lavra in Kalavrita, the monastery of Askitis in Elis, the Panayia (Virgin Mary) Katakekrymmeni in Argolis, the monastery of Vrontama in Laconia, as well as the church of Episkopi in Tegea. The list is vast, and it is really worth looking for and visiting the monasteries and churches of the Peloponnese, as each of them has a unique story, while their beauty is unparalleled, and in addition to cities and villages, we find them perched in mountains, valleys, ravines and rivers.

the historic monastery of Agia Lavra in Kalavrita

However, in the following centuries, the Peloponnese wrote history. Greek Revolution of 1821, when the Peloponnesians gave the greatest and hardest fight to liberate Greece from the Turks. Countless battles, mythical heroes and heroines gave everything so that Greece is free today. From the invincible Maniates, to the famous heroes born by Peloponnese. Nikitaras, Vilaetis, Notaras, Chrysanthakopouloi, Giatrakos, Staikopoulos, but also women like Savvaina, Konstantina Zacharia, so many heroes and heroines that it is not enough for a feature to record them all and praise their achievements. Of course, Theodoros Kolokotronis, the incarnation of the Revolution, the legendary Peloponnesian general who contributed the most to the liberation of Greece, could not be missing. The whole Peloponnese had become an endless battlefield, with the Greeks fighting for the freedom of their homeland.

Theodoros Kolokotronis

Peloponnesian people contributed the most to the liberation of the rest of Greece. After the liberation of Greece from the Turks, the people of Mani (a land southwest in Laconia) found themselves fighting the Bavarians so that the fate of the newly formed Greece would not fall into their hands. In Crete, in 1866, 1,800 Maniates people went to help in the struggle for freedom, with 500 of them watering the Cretan land with their blood. In Ioannina, in 1913, also Maniates were there to fight for the liberation of Ioannina, with the famous 8th regiment. Maniates also joined the army of the great hero Pavlos Melas who fought to liberate Macedonia. However, in 1940, in the struggle against the Italians and the Germans, Mani gave everything for the freedom of the homeland, led by the famous Konstantinos Davakis, who like a lion with his battalion consisting of many Laconians, on Pindos hills, faced the elite of the Italian army, the 3rd Alpini Brigade Julia, managing to defeat them, something that played a decisive role in the outcome of the war in favor of the Greeks. The history of the Corinthians is great from the 6th infantry regiment of Corinthia, in the first battle fought with the Italians in 1940 in Albania, specifically in the area of Vouliarates, Argyrokastro, when literally a handful of Corinthian infantry managed to occupy the hill from the Italians who were in defence and open the way of counter-attack. But other Peloponnesians also gave their lives for the freedom of Greece. Soldiers from Argolis fought in all the struggles from the Greek-Turkish war in 1897, until the Turkish invasion in Cyprus in 1974, losing over 7,000 men in all these wars. The same goes for Arcadia with over 3,000 fallen and Achaea with over 2,500 fallen. The same goes for Elis with over 2,000 fallen and Corinthia with over 1,000 fallen. Laconia with over 3,000 fallen and Messenia with over 4,500 fallen (information on numbers of the fallen comes from the Army History Directorate). These battles include the Greek-Turkish War of 1897, the Macedonian Independence War from 1904 to 1908, the Balkan Wars from 1912 to 1913, World War I from 1914 to 1918, the Asia Minor campaign from 1919 to 1922, World War II from 1940 to 1941, the National Resistance from 1941 to 1945 and the Turkish invasion in Cyprus in 1974.

the cemetery of the Greek soldiers in Vouliarates of
Argyrokastro, where the Corinthian infantrymen won

After going through the depths of history, we have come to nowadays. Today, Peloponnese is one of the most beautiful places in Greece. From cosmopolitan cities such as Patras, which is the largest city in the Peloponnese, the beautiful Kalamata and Nafplio, the first capital of Greece after the Revolution of 1821, beautiful and picturesque seaside city, to Pyrgos and Corinth, two cities that have sea and beautiful places near them. Tripoli, which is located in the heart of the Peloponnese, but also Sparta, which may be small but has many attractions. Traditional and picturesque villages, such as Vytina, Stemnitsa, Dimitsana, Andritsaina, Kalavrita, Karytaina, Kardamyli, Vathia, Trikala Corinthias, Georgitsi, Kosmas Arcadias, Lagadia and countless other villages are waiting for us to explore them. Historic cities such as Argos, the stone-built Areopolis, the beautiful Monemvasia to beautiful coastal cities such as Koroni, Gytheio, Astros and Leonidio, Katakolo and many others. All cities have restaurants, clubs, bars, theaters, museums, shops, markets, squares and everything a city would like to have, while the villages have their traditional cafes, taverns and squares. Each prefecture has an endless list of beautiful cities and villages waiting for you.

Nafplio

The Peloponnese is both a winter and a summer destination. The mountainous Arcadia and mountainous Corinthia steal the show during the winter season. But this does not mean that there are not quite many things to see and do in the rest of the Peloponnese, as mountain villages and beautiful winter landscapes await visitors. In summer the Peloponnese is really unrivalled. 

Elafonisos

The entire Peloponnesian coastline has beaches of unique beauty that make them a tourist attraction. The beaches of Elafonisos mentioned above, Simos and Sarakiniko, Finikounta and Voidokilia in Messenia, Kalogria beach in Mani, Mavrovouni and Plytra in Laconia, Elea in Messenia, Stoupa also in Mani, Kourouta in Elis, Caiaphas beach also in Elis, Fokianos beach on the slopes of Parnonas, Pefkias beach in Corinthia, the beautiful Eleni baths also in Corinthia, as well as Skalosia beach, Arvanitia and Karathonas beaches in Argolis and many others that are impossible to record all in one article.

Voidokilia beach, Messenia

Of course, festivals, events and trade fairs could not be missing from the Peloponnese. Each area holds its own celebrations, whether it concerns a patron saint or a local product, such as the feast of chestnuts in Kastanitsa, Arcadia. However, trade fairs also have their own value, such as e.g. the great trade fair of Tegea. Of course, Patras is famous all over the world, which every year organizes the biggest and most spectacular carnivals in Greece, being an attraction for thousands of visitors. Of course the traditions are not missing from the Peloponnese, as the National celebrations are always celebrated with traditional costumes, traditional music and traditional dances. The traditional dances of the Peloponnese are the sirtos, tsamikos, kalamatianos and tsakonikos. It is worth noting that the famous war dance of the Pontians, pyrrhic, originates from Sparta, as it was danced by warriors as a kind of preparation for battle.

carnival of Patras

The natural beauties of the Peloponnese are innumerable. From caves of incredible beauty such as that of Diros in Mani, the cave of the Lakes in Achaea and the cave of Kapsia in Arcadia, to beautiful forests such as that of Skiritida in Arcadia, Strofylia in Achaea, Foloi in Elis, Ksylokastro in Corinthia, Vasiliki in Laconia, the famous cedar forest of Parnon in Arcadia and much more. Incredible gorges like that of Lousios in Arcadia, while the show is stolen by waterfalls, such as those of the beautiful Neda in Elis and Polylimni in Messenia. Beautiful natural landscapes, such as the Diavologefiro in Troizina, lake Taka in Arcadia, unique wetlands, such as that of Moustos in Kynouria, Stymfalia lake in Corinthia, lake Vouliagmeni also in Corinthia, the beautiful lake Doxa, the lake Tsivlou in Achaea and many more beautiful destinations. Of course the Peloponnese has many natural habitats, which are protected by European agencies, such as for example the lagoon of Kotychio in Elis.

Neda waterfalls, Elis

The flora of the Peloponnese is truly endless, hosting numerous endemic and non-endemic plants, herbs, aromatic plants, flowers and more, such as the hypericum perforatum, the wild pansy of Parnon, irises, the centaurea of Parnon, the centaurea of Laconia and Corinthia, the Peloponnesian cyclamen, the potentilla of Arcadia, bells,the tulip of Goulimis, the Messenian skila, reeds, water lilies and more. Almost all the slopes of the Peloponnese are fragrant with the smell of thyme, oregano and sage. We find mainly pines, plane trees, firs, cypresses, oaks, willows and poplars. But the fauna of the Peloponnese is also equal to the flora. Among mammals, the largest inhabitant of Peloponnese is the wild boar. Other animals we encounter are foxes, jackals, otters, badgers, ferrets, hedgehogs and rodents. The reptile fauna of the Peloponnese is also of great importance, with endemic species such as the european green lizard, the limbless skink, the greek rock lizard and the algyroides moreoticus lizard, while we find vipers, eastern montpellier snakes, balkan whip snakes, water snakes, marginated tortoises and river turtles. When it comes to amphibians we find toads and frogs, and concerning insects we find a variety of species, some of which are endemic, such as the butterfly Menelaus. The fish fauna is also remarkable, as in almost all the rivers of the Peloponnese we find endemic species of fish, such as the aphanius almiriensis, the Laconian pelasgus, the Pelasgus stymphalicus, the kaiadic menida and the golden menida, while other species found are eels and trouts. The avifauna of the Peloponnese is very important, as many parts of Peloponnese are a resting place and a refuge for many migratory bird species. However, the endemic species are many and important, as among them we find the golden eagle, the bonelli's eagle, the short-toed snake eagle, the western marsh harrier, the common buzzard, the peregrine falcon, as well as many species of owl, while there are waterfowl such as ducks, coots, gallinula chloropus ducks, herons and more. Other inhabitants of the forests that we find are rock partridges, crows and more.

golden eagle, the largest species
of eagle in Greece

Peloponnese has a heavy industry of goods production, with which it financially supports all of Greece, as it produces goods of excellent quality. The famous raisin productions that Patras used to make, the incredible wines of Nemea and Agiorgitika, the mavrodafni of Patras, the incredible quality chapeles, figs, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, oranges, the famous aubergine of Leonidio and of course the most famous olive oil and olives, Kalamon, which come from the land of Messenia and Laconia. The famous Vytina honey, which comes from the firs and is the only one in the world that without any treatment has a vanilla taste. High quality tobacco mainly from Messenia, while of course Arcadia has a prominent role in livestock farming with wonderful cheeses, meats, milks and more. While Peloponnese also has very strong fishery, mainly in Patras, where there are fish farms. Of course, there are other goods too, such as chestnuts, walnuts, fruits and more.

Kalamon olives

With such a large number of goods, of excellent quality, it was not possible for the Peloponnese not to have a delicious cuisine. Lalagia Manis, the wonderful traditional pancakes of Mani. Syglino, salty pork, perhaps in its most delicious version. Messinian milk pie, which reminds you of something village-like. Cayanas with pork, whoever goes to Messenia, must try. Open Mani's cheese pie, contains all the Mani's products in just one bite. Messinian diples, the most delicious sweet you have tasted. Riganada, the Peloponnesian version of dakos. The Tsakonian aubergines with feta and basil from Arcadia. Giosa of Argolis, ewe cooked for hours. Bogana of Argolis, lamb or pork in the oven. Lamb with orange, one of the most delicious dishes of Peloponnese. Of course, the flagship of the Peloponnesian cuisine, the traditional pork, the favorite dish of the whole Peloponnese, could not be missing.

Peloponnesian pork

Of course the sights of the Peloponnese are endless. The fortress of Palamidi and Bourtzi in Nafplio, the ancient theater of Epidavros in Argolis, the ancient Mycenae and Tiryntha, the temple of Epicurean Apollo which is the Parthenon of Peloponnese in Arcadia, the ancient Olympia and dozens of museums in the whole Peloponnese, as well as monasteries, castles and historic houses, such as that of Theodoros Kolokotronis in Limbovisi, Arcadia.

ancient theater of Epidavros

The Peloponnesian people are hard working, people of letters and arts, such as the Laconian poets Ioannis Ritsos and Nikiforos Vrettakos, Arcadian Dimitris Mitropoulos, internationally renowned conductor, the Corinthian poet and novelist Kostas Karyotakis, the Messinian poet Maria Polydouri, the Arcadian poet Tassos Livaditis, as well as many others. They also stand out in science and sports, have very strong communities in America, Canada and Australia, while they shine in all areas. In the Peloponnese you can find people who are pure, honest, brave, respectful, friendly and warm, as long as you know how to approach them. They are people who love their homeland, they are attached to it, even if they are on the other side of the world. Unfortunately, the Peloponnese has been wronged in many issues, it does not have the same size of public works in relation to other parts of Greece, it does not get the same advertisement in relation to other parts of Greece and it is quite neglected by governments, local authorities and competent institutions. But the Peloponnese continues to live and evolve, to raise its levels in all areas, it is getting slowly but steadily kind of upgraded, but without losing its unique character. Anyone who has not visited the Peloponnese can not understand the energy of the place and its vibrations. It can only express an unsupported view. But whoever has visited it, should be sure that he/she has fully understood it, as the Peloponnese is not just soil and mountains, it is the soul and heart of Greece itself, it is a living organism with soul, mind and body.

Peloponnese

This is the Peloponnese, but not all of it, as it is a place that whatever you write about it, is never enough. No matter how hard you try. Whatever you say, there will always be something else that will be left unsaid, because the Peloponnese, as we said, is the most beautiful star in the clear blue sky of Greece.

Monday, 7 June 2021

CAMPAIGN IN THE EAST

Text by Nikos Aivalis, research by Elpida Zografidou, translation by Eva Trombetas 

We all know the Great Greek king from Macedonia, Alexander, who glorified Greece from one end of the world to the other. But how many of us know that some years ago, a Spartan king, along with Spartans and Peloponnesians, was a harbinger of Alexander the Great, as he campaigned in Asia to liberate all the Greek cities that lived for so many years under the Persian yoke.

The great man's name was Agisilaos II of Sparta, who was born in 444 BC in Sparta and died in 360 BC in the Cyrene of North Africa, while he came from the clan Euripontides. We will get to know more about the life and work of this great man in this feature, as together with the Peloponnesians, he showed that although they were divided by city-states, there was the Greek soul that united them, for this reason Agisilaos had set out to liberate the Greeks of Asia Minor. Let's learn more about the life of the Spartan king.

Agisilaos II

Agisilaos was the second son of king Archidamus II, with mother Eupolia. He had a sister, Kyniska, who was born around 430 BC, a great Spartan woman, who was the first female Olympic champion in history. Kyniska won twice at the Olympic Games, in 396 BC and in 392 BC both times in the chariot race. She was incredibly appreciated by the Spartans, but also by the other Greeks. It is characteristic that they made a bronze statue of her in Olympia, a work by Apellis, who was a painter from Kos.

Kyniska

The other two brothers of Agisilaos were Agis II, king of Sparta, and Teleftias, admiral of the Spartans. Agisilaos was short and lame on one leg, which also contradicts the myth that the Spartans threw unhealthy babies to Kaiadas cave, which has also been refuted by modern scientific research on the spot. Agisilaos was not destined to be heir to the throne and received the standard Spartan education as all young Spartans received. As he was young, during a celebration the person in charge placed him far behind, in a position where Agisilaos could not be seen. Then the young Agisilaos replied: "I must show that it is not the place itself that makes the glorious man, but the man who glorifies the place", something that shows what character this great man already had.

Sparta

Agisilaos, although not tall and not distinguished for his beauty, his kindness, his simplicity and his great character, endeared him to others. These and many other virtues he had, which caught the eye of the great Spartan general and politician, Lysander, who supported him to ascend the throne later. Agisilaos got married with Cleora, with whom he had three children: Eupolia, Proavga and Archidamus III. After the death of Agisilaos' brother, Agis II, there was a question of succession. Then Lysander helped Agisilaos to take the throne, so in 420 BC he becomes king. It was the era after the Peloponnesian War, when Sparta was the winner, resulting to it dominating militarily and politically throughout Greece.

Agisilaos II

In 396 BC bad news comes to Sparta, that the Persians gathered a huge army and navy to campaign against the Greeks. While the Lacedaemonians and their allies were studying the impending danger, Agisilaos undertook the difficult task, instead of waiting for the Persians to bring war to Greece once again, to bring the war himself to the Persians. So, with an army of 30 Spartan officers, 2,000 neodamodes (liberated helots) and 6,000 allied soldiers mainly from the Peloponnese, he decided to campaign east against the Persian Empire.

Spartan phalanx

So Agisilaos with his army landed in Ephesus in Asia Minor by ships. Then the Persian satrap Tissafernis sent people to ascertain the intentions of Agisilaos. Agisilaos replied: "I came to make the cities of Asia Minor free, as they are in the rest of Greece". Tissafernis, being cunning, promised to leave some cities autonomous if a truce was agreed. Agisilaos initially agreed, but Tissaphernes secretly asked the Persian king Artaxerxes II for an army to fight against Agisilaos. As soon as the Spartan king realized this betrayal, he attacked Caria, but in the end he headed north to the Hellespontian Phrygia. During his journey, Agisilaos took in his army also Greeks from Asia Minor who saw him as a liberator. In his wake he destroyed many forts and cities that were under Persian occupation and thus gained several spoils, which would help him in his struggle. Agisilaos headed south again and with the contribution of rich Ionians, formed a strong cavalry.

Spartan army

The continuing victories of Agisilaos, brought terror to the Persians and gave courage to the Greeks. But Agisilaos, in addition to his strategic abilities, showed another side of his character. He never mistreated prisoners, while with his personal intervention he protected children so that they would not end up in slave markets. He also helped the elders who stayed behind to avoid being devoured by dogs and wolves. This resulted in him gaining the love of the Greeks of Asia Minor, but also the respect of his own captives. In the process, Agisilaos again pretended to attack Caria, while his target was Lydia, resulting to Tissafernis instead of lining up in Lydia, he lined up in Caria. In 395 BC, Agisilaos headed to the great city of Sardis. Then Tissafernis sent a strong cavalry force to attack the Greeks, but the clever Agisilaos trapped the Persian cavalry and crushed it at the battle of the Paktolos river. Artaxerxes blamed Tissaphernes for this catastrophe and thus replaced him with Tithrafstis. Tithrafstis asked Agisilaos to return to Sparta and in return all the Greek cities of Asia Minor would get independence, but would pay a tax to the Persians. Agisilaos replied that he could not accept anything without the consent of the authorities of his homeland. Tithrafstis, gave him 30 talents for the maintenance of his army and persuaded him to go to Phrygia, the seat of the Persian satrap Pharnavazos, until the orders would come from Sparta.

Agisilaos and Pharnavazos

Agisilaos plundered Phrygia and reached Paphlagonia. Pharnavazos could not react to the Greek invasion. Agisilaos seemed invincible and the Persians could not corrupt him with gold. So the Persian satrap of Phrygia, Pharnavazos, arranged a meeting with Agisilaos, who accepted. Agisilaos was waiting for him lying under a tree, with Pharnavazos who was accustomed to riches and grandeur being offended at his sight. Pharnavazos was trying to find ways to persuade Agisilaos to abandon his campaign. Agisilaos then suggested that he ally with the Greeks. Pharnavazos replied that if the king of Persia released him from being a general, he would ally with the Greeks, but if he entrusted him with the generalship, he had a duty to fight against Agisilaos. Agisilaos admired the answer of the Persian man and replied that he would prefer to have such a man as a friend and not as an enemy, while he promised to leave from his lands.

Greece and Asia Minor

The Lacedaemonian king's next goal was to head to the Persian capital, Susa, in the far east, north of Babylon. This had never been attempted by the Greek army during the Persian empire, but Greeks had been there before, namely 10,000 Greek mercenaries under the Spartan general Clearchus, who arrived just outside Babylon, in the service of the Persian Cyrus in 401 BC, who wanted to dethrone his brother and king, Artaxerxes II. The adventure, which Xenophon describes to us, begins as Cyrus Ascension, as Cyrus heads to Babylon, in an area called Cunaxa and ends as the Descent of the Myriads, when after the defeat of Cyrus, the Greek mercenaries try from the heart of the Persian empire, to return to Greece. It is in this great adventure that we get to know the great Athenian historian, Xenophon, who after the insidious death of the Greek officers by the Persians, undertook the task to bring the Greeks safely back to their homeland.

Xenophon

So when Agisilaos was ready to campaign in the depths of the Persian empire, he received a message from Sparta to return immediately back to face a coalition of Argians, Corinthians and Athenians, led by Thebans, who were bribed by the Persian king Artaxerxes to attack Sparta and force the frightful and fear-inspiring Persian rival, Agisilaos, to retreat. Without delay, Agisilaos gathered his allies and informed them that he needed to return to Sparta and if all goes well, to be sure that he would return to defend them. When his allies in Asia Minor heard this, they wept for him, as they already loved Agisilaos very much and appreciated the fight he had gave for them. So they voted to strengthen him militarily to defend Sparta and if all went well, to bring him back to the east. The sorrow of Agisilaos was great as he did not manage to complete his dream, to liberate all the Greek cities of Asia, something that Alexander the Great would achieve years later. Notable is the phrase that Agisilaos was not defeated by the Persians, but by 30,000 archers, due to the gold Persian coins that on the back had the shape of an archer, which were given by the Persians to the coalition of Thebans and the rest of the Greeks.

Daric, the Persian gold coins with the archer

On his return, Agisilaos in Thessaly faced the famous Thessalian cavalry, as the Thessalians had allied with the Thebans. Agisilaos, however, managed to defeat them. When he arrived in Boeotia, he encountered the army of Thebans and Athenians in the plain of Koronia. The battle was very hard and without a clear winner, but at some point the battle began to tilt in favor of Agisilaos, but then the Spartan king was wounded and was transported to the rear. Another fact that shows the character of Agisilaos is that at that moment, soldiers warned him that some enemies had sought refuge in a nearby temple. Then Agisilaos did not order them to kill them, but he sent a cavalry to accompany them to where his excluded enemies would be safe.

the battle of Koronia

In the following years, Agisilaos fought many battles in the Corinthian War, where Sparta and its allies faced a coalition of Thebans, Athenians, Corinthians and Argians who had the financial support of the Persians. In 391 BC, Agisilaos attacked Corinth, where he won. It is characteristic that in the battle of Corinth, 8 Lacedaemonians were killed, while the Greek opponents lost almost 10,000 men. Agisilaos did not enjoy it and he said: "Alas Greece, because the present dead, if they lived they could defeat all the barbarians in war". Then he raided Argos with great success. Later he attacked the allies of the Athenians, the Akarnanes in Aetolia-Acarnania, whom he defeated. Unfortunately, the ongoing war exhausted Sparta, both financially and militarily, and could no longer bear all this burden. Thus in 387 BC, Agisilaos made peace with Artaxerxes, known as Antalkideios peace. This humiliating agreement required recognition of the Persian rule in the Greek cities of Asia Minor and Cyprus. This brought an end to the Corinthian War and the bloodshed. When someone remarked that the Spartans submitted theirselves to the Medes, Agisilaos replied: "better say that the Medes submitted theirselves to the Lacons".

Agisilaos, who used to sit under trees
like a common soldier

At a quite old age, Agisilaos defended the city of Sparta, against the great power developed by the Thebans. It was the first time that the city of Sparta was threatened by a large enemy force, of over 40,000 men. The Theban rule in Greece ended with the battle of Mantineia, where Agisilaos, being 82 years old, faced the famous Theban general Epameinondas, creator of the Theban rule. There the Thebans managed to defeat the Spartan army, but were forced to make peace with the Spartans as they lost their general, Epameinondas, which resulted in the fall of Thebes.

battle of Mantineia

In 361 BC at the age of 84, Agisilaos, in an attempt to find financial resources for Sparta, which had already gone into decline, went as a mercenary to Egypt. Today this sounds crazy, but for a man like Agisilaos it was not crazy to travel in his old age to Egypt, being in charge of Greek mercenaries, so as to help the Egyptian king Tacho in his revolution against the Persians. When the Egyptian rulers went to greet him they were stunned finding an old man sitting on the grass, among his soldiers, presenting him as the great Agisilaos, the fear and terror of the Persians, whose name had become famous all over the world. Most of all, they were impressed by his simplicity, since of all the gifts they offered him, he kept only a few calves and flour, while he offered the sweets and exotic delicacies to the helots. Disappointed with Tacho, Agisilaos successfully supported Nectanebo II, who became the last native Pharaoh of the Egyptians. Recognizing his valuable offer, Pharaoh invited him to spend the winter as his guest. Agisilaos, however, recognizing that his homeland needed him, chose to leave for Sparta, in order to support it financially with all the money he earned as a mercenary. However, due to the bad weather conditions, the ship of Agisilaos was swept away to Cyrene, in Libya. He died there in the winter of 360 BC, with his body being transported to Sparta for burial. During his last hours, Agisilaos instructed those who were close to him not to make statues and sculptures for him, as he said that if he did worthy deeds, these would be his monument, if not, then no matter how many busts they would make for him, none would have any value.

Agisilaos in Egypt

This was the end of the great Agisilaos, the Spartan king. It is typical how much he was praised by other great men. The Athenian orator Isocrates praised him for the spirit of pan-Hellenism that lived inside him. The great historian Plutarch writes: "he was king for 41 years and for over 30 of them, he was the most important person of all Greeks, leader and king of Greece". The Athenian historian Xenophon, who loved Sparta, while Sparta also loved him, while fighting on the side of Agisilaos in the battle of Koronia, said about Agisilaos: "Of course I know that it is difficult to write a word of praise that responds in the value of the virtue and glory of Agisilaos, however I must try to do it, because it would not be fair for a man, if he was perfect, not to be claimed for this reason even the lowest praises ". He also said: "he was the only man who proved that the power of the body weakens, but the power of the soul remains immortal". When such great men speak with such respect for such a great man as Agisilaos, our words are more than redundant. We only hope that, at some point, Greece will bring out such leaders again, who are an example to be imitated for their wisdom, their bravery, their simplicity and their love for their homeland.

Sunday, 6 June 2021

ERASINOS RIVER

Text by Nikos Aivalis, research by Elpida Zografidou, translation by Eva Trombetas 

In this feature, we will travel to Argolida, to find the Erasinos river. The river originates from the area of Kefalari, southwest of Argos, near the church of Zoodochos Pigi, at the foot of the hill Profitis Ilias, flows east, crossing the Argolic plain, to reach the Argolic gulf, in the area of Nea Kios.


The river channels its water through canals to almost the whole plain, offering valuable water for crops. In ancient times the Erasinos river was called Stymfalos as it was believed that it originated from Stymfalia lake. You can see our feature about Stymfalia here: Stymfalia Lake. The name of the river comes from the word erao (εράω), erastos (εραστός), meaning beloved. As today, in antiquity it was a very important river for the inhabitants, as it was a source of life, so the Argeians paid tribute to the river and organized festivals for it, such as the Bacchic feast, Tyrvi (tyrvi = noise, because of the sound made by the water). Amymoni, the daughter of the king of Argos, Danaos, had gone to the sources of the river to find drinking water, because Poseidon had drained all the springs of Argos, because the Argeians had chosen Hera as their city's protector. Then, according to the myth, a satyr attacked her to rape her, and then Poseidon intervened by threwing his huge trident and thus instantly killed the satyr. The trident was jammed onto a rock, where the spring of Erasinos came out from. Poseidon fell in love with Amymone, so that's why he revealed to her the sources of Lerni. Poseidon's love for Amymonius gave birth to Nafplios, the founder of today's famous city of Nafplio.

the god Poseidon saves Amymone from the satyr

Despite excessive human intervention and poor management, something that almost all rivers in Greece face, the river retains its natural wealth and is one of the most important wetlands in Argolida, suitable for hiking, excursions, picnics and other activities. The river´s vegetation consists mainly of phrygana, reeds, aquatic plants, shrubs and of course crops. The river is very important for the water birds that visit the mouth of the river in Nea Kios. Birds such as the little ringed plovers, gallinula chloropus ducks, eurasian coots, ducks and even flamingos find shelter in the river. There are also predators like buzzards, short-toed snake eagles, falcons, owls and more. When it comes to mammals we find badgers, ferrets, hedgehogs, foxes, rodents and more. There are also reptiles and amphibians like frogs, toads, vipers, water snakes, turtles etc. Among the fish fauna we find eels, mullets and river urchins.

    Erasinos river

This is the ancient Erasinos river, which is worth taking a trip to and getting to know the richness of it that is a source of life for Argolida.

ERYMANTHOS RIVER

Text by Nikos Aivalis, research by Elpida Zografidou, translation by Eva Trombetas

Achaea, an ancient and historical place. There, on Mount Erymanthos, in the northern Peloponnese, we find the river Erymanthos, which we will get to know more about in this feature. The Erymanthos river originates from the southeastern side of the mountain by the same name and after covering a distance of 50 kilometers, ends at Alpheios. You can take a look at our feature about the Alpheios river here: Alpheios the mythical river.


Erymanthos on its way passes through Tripotama of Achaea, near Kalavrita, from there it descends southwest, exits the borders of Achaea, until it separates Arcadia from Elis, between the villages of Vidiaki in Arcadia and Koumani in Elis, thus constituting a natural border for the two places since antiquity. The river´s flow is quite strong, thus being a destination for those involved in rafting and canoeing.

Erymanthos river

The river is known from the depths of antiquity. It is even mentioned in the Orphic hymns, since the river had been deified. It is characteristic that near its shores, in the area of Tripotama, there was the city of Psofis, a powerful and ancient city of the Pelasgians. The city was so strong that it minted its own coins, bronze and silver, making it one of the most important Arcadian cities. It is reported that the hero Hercules killed the Erymanthios boar around there, while from city Psofis came Zakynthos, settler of Zakynthos island, and Dardanos, settler of Dardanus in Asia Minor, who according to Dionysius of Halicarnassus, was the ancestor of the Trojans.

Erymanthos river

Many centuries later, specifically in the 18th and 19th century AD, beautiful stone bridges were built on the river, namely the bridge in Tripotama, Paraloggitiko, Pournoyiofyro and others, while around the river there are old watermills. The river's natural environment is rich, since regarding the flora we find plane trees, willows, oleanders, arbutus, osier and oaks. Regarding the lowest vegetation we find irises, narcissus, fritillaria, wild garlic, bells and more. When it comes to the bird fauna we find crows, magpies, eurasian blue tits, thrushes and more. Among the predators we find short-toed eagles, buzzards, common kestrels and owls. When it comes to reptiles and amphibians we find toads, frogs, algyroides moreoticus lizards, greek rock lizards, limbless skinks, lacerta viridis lizards, river turtles, testudo marginata Schoepff turtles, balkan whip snakes, elaphe quatuorlineata snakes, malpolon insignitus snakes, water snakes and vipers. Among the mammals we find jackals, otters, hedgehogs, ferrets, foxes, wild boars and more. In the fish fauna we find eels, river urchins, barbus peloponnesius, trouts and mullets.

stone bridge in Tripotama, Achaea

The river's natural beauty can not leave anyone unmoved. It is really worth visiting the river and follow its route as long as possible, through the mountainous landscapes it crosses.

PAMISOS RIVER

Text by Nikos Aivalis, research by Elpida Zografidou, translation by Eva Trombetas

In this feature we are heading south, specifically to Messinia. On the slopes of Mount Lykaion, in neighboring Arcadia, from the springs at Agios Floros and Pidima, a river begins, which flows by northern Taygetos, crosses all of Messinia from north to south, to reach the Messinian Gulf, between Kalamata and Messine. This river is called Pamisos, so let's get to know it.


Pamisos river is the largest river in Messinia with a length of 44 km. The river is known since antiquity as it is mentioned by Strabo and Pausanias, who mentions that it was a clean and floating river. Pamisos was deified by the ancient Messinians, because of the life offered by the river, but it is also said to have had healing benefits, as it had the capacity of a healer, something in which for sure plays a role the fact that, at the sources of the river in Agios Floros, there was a sanctuary of Asclepius. Unfortunately, nowadays the river faces the same problems that most rivers in Greece face: over-pumping for the plain water supply, pollution from human activities and neglect by the state and the competent bodies. The result of these unpleasant situations is the degradation of the river and the destruction of its natural wealth. Nevertheless, the river continues to be a source of life for the fauna and flora of the area.

Pamisos river

The flora around Pamisos includes willows, plane trees, poplars, wickers, reeds, while there are also water lilies, irises, wild garlic, fritillaria, orchids and more. The bird fauna that we find in the river is very important, as there are herons, coots, dallinula chloropus ducks, snipes, ducks, eurasian blue tits and many other species. There are predators like short-toed eagles, buzzards, circus aeruginosus, eurasian sparrowhawks, owls and more. Among the mammals we find the traditional species that exist in the Peloponnese: otters, jackals, badgers, foxes, ferrets, hedgehogs etc. When it comes to reptiles and amphibians we find frogs, toads, vipers, balkan whip snakes, water snakes, peloponnesian lacerta viridis lizards, algyroides moreoticus lizards, testudo marginata Schoepff turtles and river turtles. The fish fauna consists of the golden menida, the extremely rare laconic pelasgos, river urchins, mullets, eels and more. You can take a look at our relevant article, in which we mention many endemic species of the Peloponnesian fauna, see here: Tribute to fauna of the Peloponnese.

Pamisos river

In the 1950s, a dam was built on the river, near the Aris area, to supply water to the surrounding areas. The river used to be suitable for fishing, but the destruction of its natural environment, as mentioned above, has significantly reduced the inhabitants population near the river.

Pamisos dam and bridge

This was our feature about the river Pamisos. We wish soon all the competent bodies to work hard so that the river is healthy again.