Monday, 16 March 2020

TRIBUTE TO TAYGETOS

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

Taygetos, the highest mountain of Laconia and the whole Peloponnese. A real diamond and pride for Laconia, a mountain with wonderful nature, picturesque landscapes, ancient history, mysteries and myths.



Taygetos or Pentadactylos, took its name from Taygetos, one of the Pleiades. From the eastern Mani part of the top of Taygetos gives the image of closed hand, fist and the five butterismata gave the name Pentadaktilos. It is the highest mountain range of the Peloponnese, extending between the basins of Megalopolis, Evrotas of Laconia and Messinia. Its peak has a height of 2.407 meters and is called Profitis Ilias, from the homonymous chapel that was built near its peak, while in ancient times it was called Taletos.

Taygetos

During the Nikiforos Vrettakos (writer and poet) we meet the "erotic mingling of the sun and the stone", the "good old man" as the poet calls Taygetos, while he says: "thus stood Taygetos to me, like the bosom of my mother". Nikos Kazantzakis (writer) in a tour of 1937 in Laconia, says: "Laconia in front of us, the rich soils, the thin cypresses, and in the background, full armed, indomitable, all-round, tough legislator of Sparta, full of cliffs, Taygetos". According to Strabo it is majestic and imposing, "Mount high and upright". Taygetos is a symbol, since on its slopes and mountain tops the flame of freedom was kept unquenchable. There the persecuted found refuge and there many heroic moments of our ancestors were written. There they built their villages, from which the state has recognized 98 traditional settlements out of 118 that are located in total throughout the Peloponnese.

top of Taygetos

The top of Taygetos looks like a pyramid while according to many researchers it is a true pyramid and even the oldest in the world, a megalithic monument carved and visible from the city of Sparta, to the west of it. Irrefutable proof that this place was sacred in ancient times is the chapel of Profitis Ilias, which in many ways is rebuilt on an ancient Greek altar. The famous traveler of the 2nd century AD, Pausanias, in Laconic book writes: "Above Vryseon rises the peak of Taygetos called Taleton. That's what they call sacred to the Sun." On the mountain and its foothills, there are innumerable valuable and important monuments such as ancient Sparta, the acropolis, the Leonidaion, the sanctuary of Artemis Orthia, sanctuary of Artemis Limniatidos in the Volimn, the Menelaion, Vafios with the royal vaulted Mycenaean tomb, the sanctuary of Amyclean Apollo, Pellana the village of domed Mycenaean tombs, the ancient bridge of Rasina in the village of Xirokambi (one of the oldest bridges in Europe) and the great castle of Mystras.

ancient and modern Sparta

An important historical point is the Vasiliki Odos (the royan path) where it started from Xirokambi in Laconia, on the ancient polygonal bridge, it passed near the Pentavles, ascended to Agios Dimitrios of the forest of Vasiliki, descended to Priyonia, Kakia Skala, Kapiala, Plicholi, Soudeniko, Makri Sidio, Dilagado and following the stream from Akonia, Klubinitsa, Kousi, Pache Iskio, Troskona, Lozitsa, Chora, Tseria and Agia Sofia ended up in Kardamili. This road was crossed when the son of Achilles, Pyrrhus, crossed Taygetos, going up to Sparta to marry the worthy beauty Hermione, daughter of the beautiful Helen and Menelaus. Aristomenis must have used the same road to invade the plain of Evrotas during the Messenian Wars. The forest of Vasiliki took its name from this road. The natural way of the gorge was also used as a corridor for the transmission of messages.

wellspring of Manganiari, Taygetos

The need for early notification and protection of the inhabitants of the hinterland during medieval times from the raids of pirates, forced the inhabitants to construct in caves on the steep slopes, stone structures in places to ensure the visual transmission of the signal from guard to guard, reaching thus to the depths of the hinterland. During the years of Turkish occupation and German occupation, the observatories themselves served as shelters for the hunted. Of particular archaeological and cultural value are the two Byzantine monasteries of Lykaki and Sotiras, of the 14th AD century below the Kalives, the stone-carved Agia Sofia on the rim of the gorge near Petrovouni, as well as the Monastery of Zerbitsa which is distinguished for its Athonite architecture.

wellspring of Manganiari, Taygetos

Many of the precipitation and melting snows follow the path of the wild mountain canyons or gush cool water into the springs scattered on the mountain. Important wellsprings are Arna, which in its Square is one of the largest plane trees in Greece, the wellspring of Pentavli, the wellspring of Trypi and the wellspring of Manganiari. Remarkable ecosystems develop in the gorges, with great scientific interest, while the beauty of the landscape is enjoyed by hikers who decide to cross. The most important are: Megali Lagada which has a length of 1.3 km and separates the north from the Central Taygetos. It starts from the position Syliboves in Alagonia, passes by the well-known underground cave Kaiadas near the village of Trypi and ends at the river Evrotas. The gorge of Bartounia with its many waters, caves and rich history. The Rintomos Gorge, which Pausanias calls "pigeonhole Napi", that is, a valley of pigs. Begins the gully of fairy-Wood (2031m.) crosses the municipality of Avia near the villages Pigadia, Center (Gaitses), Doloi and ends in the Messinian Gulf, east of Kalamata in the village Kitries (Sandova position). The gorge of Vyros is formed by the streams that flow on the slopes of the top of the Chalasmeno Vouno (broken mountain) and by a plateau with the beautiful forest of Vasiliki.

bridge Rasina Xirokabi (100 BC)

Beautiful destinations in Taygetos are the villages of Mystras, Arna, Georgitsi, Kastori, Nedousa (the village of Nikitaras, a famous greek warrior), Anogia, Loganiko, Leontari, Anavryti, Toriza, Artemisia and Alagonia, while very beautiful natural points are the wellspring of Manganiari, the refuge and the top of Taygetos, the green gorge of Castor and the medieval settlement Koumousta in the Monastery of Gollas. Interesting are the routes by car from Sparta-Kalamata, from Μegalopolis-Giorgitsi-Sparta and the visit to the beautiful mountain villages of Laconia (Arna, Anavryti, Mystras) and Messinia (Tseria, Exohori, Saidona). Also the routes on forest dirt roads such as Xirokampi-Koumousta-refuge EOS and Anogia-Paleopanagia-refuge of Taygetos from Mystras - Anavryti - Manganiari wellspring, the crossing from Stoupa - Pyrgaki - Saidona - Vassiliki forest - Giatrissa - Gytheio, as well as from Giorgitsi-Niochori. As for hiking and mountaineering, in recent years on the eastern side of the mountain, in Laconia, thanks to the efforts of a few people, mainly the Mountaineering Association of Sparta, 58 kilometers of paths and between them cobbled paths were supported, opened, weeded and made. A huge communication network was restored in the simple traditional way, while at the same time all routes were correctly marked and mapped.

Anavryti village and Taygetos

Taygetos is a very rich biodiversity mountain. The great change of habitats has resulted in the flourishing of 600 species of plants (without the complete recording), more than 120 Greek endemic plants, of which 32 exclusively in Taygetos like the campanulas of Taygetos, aquilegia of Taygetos and hyperiko of Taygetos, while it has rich vegetation in herbs and aromatic plants such as oregano, mint, thymus, tea, lavender, etc. The trees that thrive on the mountain are mainly oaks, arbutus unedo, pistacia, maple, pyrus amygdaliformis, firs and pinus nigra.

Anavryti village

85 species of birds, 19 mammals, 33 reptiles and amphibians have been observed, while it is considered one of the two most important areas of the Peloponnese for butterflies and insects. More than 110 species of butterflies have been recorded, the most important being the endemic species polyommatus menelaos, which exists only in Taygetos. The avifauna is very rich with the most important species that of the majestic golden eagle, which is the largest species of eagle in Greece with a wingspan of up to 2.3 meters. Other birds of prey that we find are the buzzard and the bonelli's eagle, while we will see other species of birds such as jays, blackbirds, woodpeckers, columba palumbus and others. However, the reptile fauna of the mountain is important as it includes rare species of lizards. The mammals of the area are wild boars, foxes, jackals, hares, ferrets, badgers and weasels. In the past there were also large mammals that today have disappeared such as bears, deers, wolves and lynxes.

wellspring of Trypi

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