ANAVRYTI THE BALCONY OF TAYGETOS

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

Just 15 kilometers from historic Sparta, southwest at an altitude of 800 meters, in the shadow of the Neraidovouna peak, lies one of the most beautiful villages of mountain Taygetos, Anavryti. In this beautiful village we will also go, admire the legendary Taygetos, gaze at the Laconic plain, taste the local cuisine and walk in the beautiful streets of the village.

Anavryti village, Laconia

Anavryti, which belongs to the province of Lacedaemon, with few inhabitants now, is a mountainous destination. Starting from Sparta, we follow the road Sparta-Agios Ioannis, towards the homonymous village Agios Ioannis. After a short and pleasant journey through orange and olive trees, we reach where we see how the road turns and follows literally an ascent to the mountainside. The route that follows is quite difficult, although small, since the road in several places narrows and has several turns, so it is good to be careful in your driving and if you have passengers who are dizzy easily, it is good to make a fairly gentle driving. However, do not hesitate for a minute to take this route, since the view will reward you twice. As you climb, you will open on your side the Laconic plain, an incredible view, while back and forth you will see the steep slopes of Taygetos. In the daytime you will see from end to end the whole land between Taygetos and Parnonas, while if you happen to be on this road at night, you will see the lights of Sparta and the surrounding villages, even the most distant, shining like small diamonds in the night.

road to Anavryti

All the way, apart from the truly unique view, you will admire the unique natural beauty of the slopes of Taygetos. At some point the road will cease to be so uphill and difficult and will give way to a more comfortable road. This means that we are now very close to our destination. By the time we reach the village, the view and the nature of the place will surely win even the most demanding visitor. A green environment around us and in front of us the imposing and unsurpassed beauty of the mountain range of Taygetos, with the top, the "Pyramid", stands out. If you visit the village during the winter months, until Easter (we recommend that you visit the village on Easter), it is very likely that Taygetos is covered with snow, which beautifies the landscape even more.

mount Taygetos from Anavryti

We arrive at the village of beautiful Anavryti. The name Anavryti comes from the word "anavryo" (anavryo = flow), something that testifies to the springs of water that come directly from the heart of Taygetos. In ancient times, in Anavryti there was a sanctuary of the goddess Demeter, showing us the importance of this place. At the end of the 19th century the village experienced great development due to tannery, as many other arts operated, such as candlestick, shoemaking, tapestry, rope making, but also textiles, as the women of the village made almost everything on their looms, famous Laconian women for their art, while the men dealt with agricultural and mainly livestock. Formerly Anavryti was the seat of the municipality of Vryseon, while now it belongs to the municipality of Mystras. It is worth saying, that the club Vriseon Anavrytis New York, is the first and oldest Greek club in the American continent (1901).

Anavryti

Having reached the center of the village, we find ourselves in a beautiful small square, with a small fir tree, where at Christmas there is a beautiful manger, while a map tells us that we are in the village Anavryti, at 800 meters altitude. In the background we see Taygetos bright and majestic, a few steps in front of us we see fountains with crystal water running, while next to us there is a tavern that offers traditional food, as well as coffee. The kitchen includes all local types of meats, vegetables, as well as wine. Laconic and delicious dishes, all with flavors of Taygetos, while red local wine gladdens the heart, in a very friendly and warm atmosphere, as if it is cold the fireplace is lit, but as warm is the fireplace, warm are the hearts of the Laconians here who will welcome you.

Anavryti's kitchen

A very beautiful sight of the village is the Botanical and Agricultural Museum of Anavryti, which is housed in the school that had the village. There you will admire many rocks and plants from Taygetos. In the center of the village there is the church of Agios Nikolaos, with many old and beautiful frescoes. The church celebrates on December 6, st. Nicholas. There are other beautiful churches around the village, which are among the sights to see, such as Agios Georgios, Agios Ioannis Anavrytis, Panagitsa and the Holy Monastery of Faneromeni.

Monastery of Faneromeni, Anavryti

The Monastery of Faneromeni, is a beautiful place, in a beautiful location literally in nature, just outside the center of the village. The monastery was built in 1835 by archimandrite Athanasios Ladopoulos. According to tradition, the icon of Panagia Faneromeni, which depicts the assumption of the Virgin Mary, was found after the suggestion of the Virgin Mary herself to Athanasios Ladopoulos, when he was a child, in a cave in the place "Ascitario", where the monastery is built and there is the icon. In 1943 the Germans destroyed the monastery except the temple. After its reconstruction, the monastery has three complexes of halls and cells, as well as a beautiful bell tower. Formerly there were several monks, but today there is only one. The monastery celebrates on the 8th of September, at the birthday of the Virgin Mary.

Anavryti

Leaving the monastery, we return to the village to walk a little. Starting from the center, we walk literally two minutes and find ourselves on a balcony with idyllic view. On the one hand the two-storey mansions, while on the other green hills. We should mention that in the village there are beautiful hostels for those who want to stay. Moving on, we come across a network of trails, the European path E4 and the National path E32, two paths that every lover of nature and hiking should walk. The famous trail of Taygetos E4 is well mapped and marked. The paths branch in the following places: Anavryti, Mystras, chapel Metamorphosis of Sotiras, stream Lagada, Monastery of Faneromeni, chapel of Agios Strategos, Taygetos, position Omos, position Sela and settlement Pergantaika on the slope of the peak Xerovouna.

springs of water, Anavryti

Continuing our walk, through the beautiful nature and the wonderful view of the village, among the stone-built mansions, we reach a small square of the village. The sight left us dumbfounded. Three large springs, with plenty of cool water running, gushing through Taygetos, stone built, with ivy wrapped around, creating the image of a fairy land. If you come summer, it is imperative that you come to drink water, wet your face and hair and fill bottles to take with you. Harmony between nature, water, mountain, man, you can sit a little to the right of the springs, on a paved bench and listen to the water running.

streets of Anavryti

So we complete our journey to the beautiful village of Anavryti. On our way back we had only beautiful pictures. Nature, endless views from everywhere, running waters, Taygetos, stately houses, friendly residents, tasty food and wine, what else can someone want? No matter how many words you say about this village and its surrounding area, you cannot describe how unique it is. Whether you go on the same day, or book a hostel, one thing is for sure, that when you leave you will definitely want to come again, this is probably the most beautiful feeling, a place to call you again and again, then from a travel destination, it becomes your destination.

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GYTHEIO THE LAND OF THE GODS

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

Gytheio, one of the most beautiful coastal cities of Laconia, Peloponnese, Greece. Small, stately, beautiful, erotic, but also historical the gate of Mani. We travel thither to meet the land of the gods.

We start from historic Sparta, about 40 kilometers away, following the road Sparta Gytheio, enjoying the heart of the Laconic land. For everyone who is not in a hurry can enter through the villages of Taygetos and Eurotas. I'm sure he won't regret it. The whole route is decorated with the famous olive groves of Laconia, while right and left Taygetos and Parnonas accompany the journey until we reach the Laconic gulf and Gytheio.

Gytheio

Gytheio is a small town with about 4500 inhabitants. It is built amphitheatrically at the foot of mount Larisio and is the main port of the Laconic gulf. The traveler Pausanias in "Laconic book", mentions that the name of Gytheio means "Land of the Gods" (gy/gi/gaia = land, theio/theos = god), from the Homeric word "gyon" (earth) and god, because of the great prices received Hercules and Apollo in the tradition.

Gytheio from the island of Kranai

A great archaeological discovery is the ancient theatre of Gytheio, while many findings show that the port of Gytheio was one of the most important ports of the ancient Spartans. The modern port after efforts is functional and accessible, as well as safe, giving the possibility of tourist development of the area. During the years of Turkish occupation, Gytheio was the border of free and independent Greek Mani with the Ottoman Empire.

evening at the port of Gytheio

Arriving in Gytheio, we see a beautiful place, with squares, shops, beautiful mansions, a beautiful harbor, picturesque fish taverns by the sea, with characteristic octopus hanging on the appetite of passers-by. It is striking how the "old Gytheio" has been so harmoniously combined with the "modern Gytheio", modern cafes blend harmoniously with the historical churches of the area and old neoclassics that decorate the area, in short no one will be left indifferent or complaining from this visit.

cafe in the heart of Gytheio

Walking and exploring the streets of Gytheio, we discover shops from the past, which fill the visitor with memories. Old bookstores, Municipal Library, small shops, traditional cafes and others are waiting to be visited.

old "seaside" bookstore

Another beautiful element of Gytheio is its squares. Tables of shops, trees, as well as monuments adorn the squares, so that no square leaves you indifferent. So we also met walking along the port a beautiful monument with an old cannon, two shields adorning right and left and a column inscribing "hail oh hail freedom", donated by Laconians from America and Canada.

monument of Freedom, Gytheio

In the next square we met another imposing monument, that of the Laconian aviators who fell in the hour of duty. An eagle seated on the column, on the right the Greek flag, on the left the flag of Mani and below two plaques with the names of the fallen heroes and the dates.

monument of Laconian aviators

Moving on, in a large square, we met a beautiful neoclassical building. It is the old girls school and the Modern Culture Center, which was erected in 1896. On the left and right of the Centre are two statues, two great Greek poets, Yiannis Ritsos from Monemvasia and Nikiforos Vrettakos from Krokees.

eastern Mani's Culture Center

The Center is a beautiful Museum of folklore, with great exhibits that will help you to listen to the history and culture of Gytheio. Near the center of culture there is a beautiful school with a mythological painting on its outer wall, which shows the battle of Hercules and Apollo for the tripod of the Oracle of Delphi.

Yiannis Ritsos and Nikiforos Vrettakos, Gytheio

After wandering as much as we could in the streets of Gytheio, we headed towards Kranai, a small but historic island of Gytheio, which is connected by an alley. A beautiful and green islet, something like a natural and historical park, on which there are two famous sights, the Tzanetaki's tower and the lighthouse of Gytheio. Its name is said to have been taken from the helmet of Paris, Prince of Troy who stole the beautiful Helen of Sparta, sailed from Kranai and in the panic to flee quickly lost his helmet on the island (kranos = helmet).

view of Gytheio from the island of Kranai

Following the alley that leads you onto the island, we see a sign with the map of Mani, a fantastic view, the whole of Gytheio, the sea that with its smell travels you, in the background the Trinisa and the wreck of Gytheio, while on the other side opens a unique sea that rains Mani. There as a guard of the island at the entrance stands the chapel of Agios Petros, small and beautiful, having in front of it the Greek flag, next to it a small picturesque beach and in the background an unforgettable view.

the road to Kranai, right the chapel of Agios Petros

Walking through a green landscape and round round sea, we arrive at an imposing tower. The tower, a very well preserved and traditional monument, was built in 1829 and it is the tower of Tzanetakis Grigorakis. The tower is declared a historic listed monument and is a typical example of the traditional architecture of Mani, while it houses the historical Ethnological Museum of Mani.

Tzanetaki's tower

Tzanetakis Grigorakis (1785-1868) took part in the Greek revolution of 1821, leading in the siege of Monemvasia, where he was appointed first chieftain of the city. After the liberation, Tzanetakis took part as a proxy in national assemblies and served as a senator under Kapodistrias. As a military man having first received the rank of following colonel, ten years later he was promoted to major-general.

Tzanetaki's tower, back side

Continuing our tour, we see on the island people walking, jogging and fishing on the rocks of the island, in a picturesque environment, listening to the splash of the waves, with reeds and lines waiting patiently for the next bite. We reach the edge of Kranai and the lighthouse of Gytheio. The lighthouse consists of a stone tower 16 meters high and a ground floor house of lighthouse keepers. It was built in 1873 and belongs to the Navy, while in 1989 it was granted permission to form the Naval Museum of Mani on the ground floor of the lighthouse.

Gythio's lighthouse

After this magical wandering in Gytheio, we are preparing to go to a neighboring summer paradise of the region, which, however, in winter, as now we have gone, can really amaze even the most demanding visitor. We talk about Mavrovouni.

Gytheio by night

At a short distance of just 2 km from Gytheio, we find Mavrovouni, which is built on a hill from Tzanibei (1742-1813), of the genus Grigorakides. The settlement today consists of picturesque houses, mostly cottages, while the great attraction of the area is the famous Mavrovouni's beach.

Mavrovouni's beach

An endless, beautiful beach 5 km long, wide, thick clean sand, crystal clear water, incredible views, trees at the back of the beach to offer shade in the summer and a series of picturesque and beautiful hostels, taverns, hotels, complete the perfect landscape for summer holidays, in a place full of life in the summer months, since it is the place where the residents of Gytheio prefer to take their holidays, but also many Spartans and Maniates make their summer's swim in the blue waters of Mavrovouni. In winter the landscape changes, the shops that bustle with life in summer are closed, while few residents are in the small village of Mavrovouni.

evening at Mavrovouni's beach

This is not necessarily bad, since now a whole beach is spread out in front of the visitor, giving him the opportunity for running, jogging, walking with a dog, even picnics on the beach, but also activities such as rackets, since you feel that the beach is all yours. Of course we think it unnecessary to say that leaving the place just as we found it, without garbage, without bottles and anything else that would destroy this wonderful and clean beach.

Mavrovouni's beach

Here ends our tour in the picturesque Gytheio, knowing its beautiful city, the beautiful island of Kranai, the magnificent beach of Mavrovouni, monuments, unforgettable images and an anticipation to come again soon and get to know even more Gytheio, as well as discover more monuments and natural beauties of the place. Until then we recommend that you also visit Gytheio and discover one of the best destinations in the Peloponnese.

MYSTRAS THE BYZANTINE CASTLE STATE

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

Starting from historic and glorious Sparta in Laconia, we have as our destination Mystras, a distance of 8 km. Following the road EO Spartis Mystras, through a beautiful route, from where we pass through the park Goude and Palaiologio, already from that point it seems the castle city of Mystras adorning the slopes of Taygetos.

Arriving at the village of Mystras, we see a beautiful and picturesque village, with stone houses, paved streets, beautiful small squares, quality shops, while the statue of Constantinos Palaiologos stands on the road from the village to the entrance of the castle town, in a beautiful square full of flowers. Constantinos IA Palaiologos, the Last Emperor of Byzantium, was born on 8 February 1405 and died on 29 May 1453 during the fall of Constantinople by the Ottomans. Fighting heroically, he became a legendary figure of the Greek tradition, as the "marble King", who would wake up and re-take Constantinople from the Turks. He was born in Constantinople with father Manuel II Palaiologos and mother Eleni Dragasi. In 1427 Constantinos found himself with many villages from Laconia and Messinia under his command.

statue of Constantinos Palaiologos, Mystras

October 1443 Constantinos became despot of Mystras and made many attempts to strengthen the military forces and defenses of the Peloponnese against the threat of the Ottomans. On January 6, 1449, Constantinos was crowned emperor in Mystras, in the church of st. Demetrius and left for Constantinople, so that some years later he would pass in the pantheon of the Greek heroes.

marble relief with the double-headed eagle in the church of Agios Dimitrios,
where Constantinos stepped to be crowned emperor in Mystras

Mystras was the most powerful city of the Peloponnese from the 13th to the 15th century. A well-fortified city, the capital of the Despotate. The castle was deserted about 1832, when the inhabitants began to go to Sparta, with only a few nuns in the monastery of Pantanassa. A place full of ruins reminiscent of the glorious past of Mystras, huge walls, fortress, towers, a small palace, mansions, churches and monasteries compose the sights of the place, combined with a wonderful view from all points, overlooking the Laconic plain. Even today Mystras is considered one of the most representative monuments of the Byzantine Empire, with thousands of visitors every year, and has been declared by UNESCO a World Heritage Site.

Pantasassa Monastery

Descending from the castle city, we find ourselves again in the beautiful village of Mystras, in order to tour the most modern part of the area. In the village there are large and state-of-the-art hotel units, with endless views and all amenities for every visitor, and there are even camping facilities. The village of Mystras has about 500 inhabitants, and there are two wonderful museums, the Camera Museum of the photographer Takis Aivalis, as well as the Archaeological Museum of Mystras, which is housed in a two-storey building in the courtyard of the metropolis, in the church of Agios Dimitrios.

Mystras square

In the central square, we see a beautiful landscape that offers the Taygetos generously with forests, the castle perched on its slopes, the stone houses of the village, while the square itself is an attraction, a stone-paved, with a huge tree in the centre of this, to supervise and to provide summer coolness and limpid water, which runs through the maple tree, with flowers, basil and other plants around the tree, to make the soul of any visitor to feel at one with nature.

running water in the square

Around the square there are various shops with local products, souvenir shops, shops of handmade Byzantine art, as well as restaurants, which are ready to give everyone unique flavors of quality products and traditional food, while you can enjoy the company of people there, from whom you can learn many stories about the past years, in a warm atmosphere.

statue of Theodoros Kolokotronis, Mystras

Every year, from 27 August to 2 September, there is a great festival in Mystras, which is not just an important economic event for the region, but a reference point of commercial and cultural history of the region, which began in 1950 in honor of Agios Ioannis Prodromos. At the festival there is a huge open-air bazaar and an infinite number of products.

rainy day in Mystras

Mystras is a wonderful destination worth visiting either winter or summer, each season offers its own landscape and its own beauties, but one thing is certain, that everyone who goes to the village of Mystras and the castle city, will stay in the heart of it as one of the most loved and valued destinations.

FLORA OF THE PELOPONNESE

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

In a previous article, we had mentioned some characteristic fauna species of the Peloponnese. In this article we will make a tribute to the flora of the Peloponnese, to some important and special species. Greece is one of the most blessed places worldwide, as it has in its arms innumerable herbs and healing plants, endemic plants and unique varieties of flowers, which compose an earthly paradise, from which the Peloponnese clearly could not be absent.

We start from a small and miraculous yellow flower, called spathochorto (spathi = sword, chorto = grass), (Hypericum perforatum), while in ancient Greece it was called "Hyperikon". A miracle of nature that we find almost all over the Peloponnese, is known from ancient Sparta, where the Spartans used spathochorto after the battles to heal their wounds. This wonderful flower has antidepressant, antiseptic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, astringent and healing properties, while from this plant is made the famous burdock oil, which is easy to prepare, as we only need a dark pot, olive oil and sedge. This Flower reaches one meter in height, is a herbaceous perennial plant and thrives in areas that have enough rains throughout the year.

spathochorto (Hypericum perforatum)

The next plant is agriopanses of Parnonas (Viola parnonia). It is an endemic plant of Parnonas, perennial herbaceous plant, grows in stony and rocky areas and at high altitudes (1600 meters). It has blue flowers, with white staining and dark lines, and blooms in spring to summer.

agriopanses of Parnonas (Viola parnonia)

Centaurea of Parnonas, (Centaurea athoa ssp. parnonia). Also endemic plant of Parnonas, has yellow flowers and blooms in Stony areas in summer.

centaurea of Parnonas (Centaurea athoa ssp. parnonia)

Next plant is centaurea of Laconia (Centaurea laconica). Endemic plant of the southern Peloponnese, poletes plant that reaches one meter height, grows in rocky areas and on roadsides, at altitudes above 100 meters, and blooms in spring.

centaurea of Laconia (Centaurea laconica)

Centaurea of Corinth (Centaurea corinthiaca), an endemic perennial plant of Corinth, is found in fields, vineyards, ravines and toadstools, blooms spring to summer and has rose-white flowers.

centaurea of Corinth (Centaurea corinthiaca)

Cyclamen of Peloponnese (Cyclamen repandum ssp. peloponnesiacum var. vividum). A beautiful flower of the south-eastern Peloponnese, which we find in stony areas, as well as in shady places. Its color is rosy to red and blooms in spring.

cyclamen of Peloponnese (Cyclamen repandum ssp. peloponnesiacum var. vividum)

Potentilla of Arcadia (Potentilla arcadiensis), an endemic flower of the Peloponnese, on the border between Laconia and Arcadia, a perennial plant, usually found up to 500 m. altitude in steep places, while it blooms in summer.

potentilla of Arcadia (Potentilla arcadiensis)

Ophrys of Taygetos (Ophrys taygetica), an endemic orchid discovered in 2010. It is usually found at altitudes above 900 meters, under fir trees or in clearings.

ophrys of Taygetos (Ophrys taygetica)

Ophrys of Argos (Ophrys argolica), an endemic species of orchid of the Peloponnese and central Greece, most commonly found in Argolida. We find it at an altitude of up to 1000 meters, in brushlands, shrubs and roadsides. It blooms in the spring.

ophrys of Argos (Ophrys argolica)

Tulip of Goulimyi (Tulipa goulimyi), an endemic flower of the southern Peloponnese, found in Elafonisos, Mani and Kythira. Perennial plant, reaches 30 cm in height and we find it among phrygana, at an altitude of up to 400 meters. It blooms in the spring.

tulip of Goulimyi (Tulipa goulimyi)

Scilla the Messinian (Scilla messeniaca), an endemic flower of Messinia, is found in mountainous, stony and wet areas, at an altitude of 100 to 300 meters. It blooms in the spring.

scilla the Messinian (Scilla messeniaca)

Flower of Moreas (Aurinia moreana), endemic species of the northern Peloponnese. We meet this plant mainly in Achaia, like the Panachaic mountain, in rocky soils.

flower of Moreas (Aurinia moreana)