GYTHEIO THE LAND OF THE GODS

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

Gytheio, one of the most beautiful coastal cities of Laconia, Peloponnese, Greece. Small, stately, beautiful, erotic, but also historical the gate of Mani. We travel thither to meet the land of the gods.

We start from historic Sparta, about 40 kilometers away, following the road Sparta Gytheio, enjoying the heart of the Laconic land. For everyone who is not in a hurry can enter through the villages of Taygetos and Eurotas. I'm sure he won't regret it. The whole route is decorated with the famous olive groves of Laconia, while right and left Taygetos and Parnonas accompany the journey until we reach the Laconic gulf and Gytheio.

Gytheio

Gytheio is a small town with about 4500 inhabitants. It is built amphitheatrically at the foot of mount Larisio and is the main port of the Laconic gulf. The traveler Pausanias in "Laconic book", mentions that the name of Gytheio means "Land of the Gods" (gy/gi/gaia = land, theio/theos = god), from the Homeric word "gyon" (earth) and god, because of the great prices received Hercules and Apollo in the tradition.

Gytheio from the island of Kranai

A great archaeological discovery is the ancient theatre of Gytheio, while many findings show that the port of Gytheio was one of the most important ports of the ancient Spartans. The modern port after efforts is functional and accessible, as well as safe, giving the possibility of tourist development of the area. During the years of Turkish occupation, Gytheio was the border of free and independent Greek Mani with the Ottoman Empire.

evening at the port of Gytheio

Arriving in Gytheio, we see a beautiful place, with squares, shops, beautiful mansions, a beautiful harbor, picturesque fish taverns by the sea, with characteristic octopus hanging on the appetite of passers-by. It is striking how the "old Gytheio" has been so harmoniously combined with the "modern Gytheio", modern cafes blend harmoniously with the historical churches of the area and old neoclassics that decorate the area, in short no one will be left indifferent or complaining from this visit.

cafe in the heart of Gytheio

Walking and exploring the streets of Gytheio, we discover shops from the past, which fill the visitor with memories. Old bookstores, Municipal Library, small shops, traditional cafes and others are waiting to be visited.

old "seaside" bookstore

Another beautiful element of Gytheio is its squares. Tables of shops, trees, as well as monuments adorn the squares, so that no square leaves you indifferent. So we also met walking along the port a beautiful monument with an old cannon, two shields adorning right and left and a column inscribing "hail oh hail freedom", donated by Laconians from America and Canada.

monument of Freedom, Gytheio

In the next square we met another imposing monument, that of the Laconian aviators who fell in the hour of duty. An eagle seated on the column, on the right the Greek flag, on the left the flag of Mani and below two plaques with the names of the fallen heroes and the dates.

monument of Laconian aviators

Moving on, in a large square, we met a beautiful neoclassical building. It is the old girls school and the Modern Culture Center, which was erected in 1896. On the left and right of the Centre are two statues, two great Greek poets, Yiannis Ritsos from Monemvasia and Nikiforos Vrettakos from Krokees.

eastern Mani's Culture Center

The Center is a beautiful Museum of folklore, with great exhibits that will help you to listen to the history and culture of Gytheio. Near the center of culture there is a beautiful school with a mythological painting on its outer wall, which shows the battle of Hercules and Apollo for the tripod of the Oracle of Delphi.

Yiannis Ritsos and Nikiforos Vrettakos, Gytheio

After wandering as much as we could in the streets of Gytheio, we headed towards Kranai, a small but historic island of Gytheio, which is connected by an alley. A beautiful and green islet, something like a natural and historical park, on which there are two famous sights, the Tzanetaki's tower and the lighthouse of Gytheio. Its name is said to have been taken from the helmet of Paris, Prince of Troy who stole the beautiful Helen of Sparta, sailed from Kranai and in the panic to flee quickly lost his helmet on the island (kranos = helmet).

view of Gytheio from the island of Kranai

Following the alley that leads you onto the island, we see a sign with the map of Mani, a fantastic view, the whole of Gytheio, the sea that with its smell travels you, in the background the Trinisa and the wreck of Gytheio, while on the other side opens a unique sea that rains Mani. There as a guard of the island at the entrance stands the chapel of Agios Petros, small and beautiful, having in front of it the Greek flag, next to it a small picturesque beach and in the background an unforgettable view.

the road to Kranai, right the chapel of Agios Petros

Walking through a green landscape and round round sea, we arrive at an imposing tower. The tower, a very well preserved and traditional monument, was built in 1829 and it is the tower of Tzanetakis Grigorakis. The tower is declared a historic listed monument and is a typical example of the traditional architecture of Mani, while it houses the historical Ethnological Museum of Mani.

Tzanetaki's tower

Tzanetakis Grigorakis (1785-1868) took part in the Greek revolution of 1821, leading in the siege of Monemvasia, where he was appointed first chieftain of the city. After the liberation, Tzanetakis took part as a proxy in national assemblies and served as a senator under Kapodistrias. As a military man having first received the rank of following colonel, ten years later he was promoted to major-general.

Tzanetaki's tower, back side

Continuing our tour, we see on the island people walking, jogging and fishing on the rocks of the island, in a picturesque environment, listening to the splash of the waves, with reeds and lines waiting patiently for the next bite. We reach the edge of Kranai and the lighthouse of Gytheio. The lighthouse consists of a stone tower 16 meters high and a ground floor house of lighthouse keepers. It was built in 1873 and belongs to the Navy, while in 1989 it was granted permission to form the Naval Museum of Mani on the ground floor of the lighthouse.

Gythio's lighthouse

After this magical wandering in Gytheio, we are preparing to go to a neighboring summer paradise of the region, which, however, in winter, as now we have gone, can really amaze even the most demanding visitor. We talk about Mavrovouni.

Gytheio by night

At a short distance of just 2 km from Gytheio, we find Mavrovouni, which is built on a hill from Tzanibei (1742-1813), of the genus Grigorakides. The settlement today consists of picturesque houses, mostly cottages, while the great attraction of the area is the famous Mavrovouni's beach.

Mavrovouni's beach

An endless, beautiful beach 5 km long, wide, thick clean sand, crystal clear water, incredible views, trees at the back of the beach to offer shade in the summer and a series of picturesque and beautiful hostels, taverns, hotels, complete the perfect landscape for summer holidays, in a place full of life in the summer months, since it is the place where the residents of Gytheio prefer to take their holidays, but also many Spartans and Maniates make their summer's swim in the blue waters of Mavrovouni. In winter the landscape changes, the shops that bustle with life in summer are closed, while few residents are in the small village of Mavrovouni.

evening at Mavrovouni's beach

This is not necessarily bad, since now a whole beach is spread out in front of the visitor, giving him the opportunity for running, jogging, walking with a dog, even picnics on the beach, but also activities such as rackets, since you feel that the beach is all yours. Of course we think it unnecessary to say that leaving the place just as we found it, without garbage, without bottles and anything else that would destroy this wonderful and clean beach.

Mavrovouni's beach

Here ends our tour in the picturesque Gytheio, knowing its beautiful city, the beautiful island of Kranai, the magnificent beach of Mavrovouni, monuments, unforgettable images and an anticipation to come again soon and get to know even more Gytheio, as well as discover more monuments and natural beauties of the place. Until then we recommend that you also visit Gytheio and discover one of the best destinations in the Peloponnese.