Tuesday 17 March 2020

A TRIP TO THE WONDERFUL KYNOURIA - PART 2

Text and research by Giota Christoforou, translation by Eva Trombetas

Leonidio, "sure place" was named after great hero Theodoros Kolokotronis, because it was the place that never fell into the hands of the Turks. We talk about the capital of Tsakonia, Leonidio, one of the oldest maritime states. Its name comes from Agios Leonidis or Agios Lidis in Tsakonika. It is said that he was drowned by the Romans and his body was taken out on the village Prasies along with seven other female allies.

"where you came stranger, you will see a lot and hear more,
tell the others to come to Leonidio"

The church of Agios Leonidis is built in 1293 in Plaka Leonidio, on the tomb of Semeli. His memory is honored every April 15 with a grandiose ceremony. There is also the version of Pausanias, according to which because of the worship of the inhabitants to the god Dionysus was called Dionysus Garden. The Tsakones are first mentioned by Constantine Porphyrogenis as kastrofylakoi (castle's guardians), a class of hardened akrites who were sent to the remote parts of the Empire of Byzantium. On March 16th, at the location of Marathias of Leonidio, Tsakones heroically raised the Greek flag with its symbol the Cross in the middle, the snake and the owl from above eating the head of the snake that is the Ottoman Turks. "Perdikoules of Moria up there where you go give haberia to Moria in all the villas came out Tsakonopoulos of Captain Giorgakis", lyrics from songs that show the heroism and sacrifice of Tsakones.

Dafnona's gorge

Leonidio is built in the valley of Dafnonas, which divides it in two parts. Dafnonas gorge is considered a protected area and included in the Natura 2000 Network as it is rich in fauna and flora. The local architecture in the houses of Leonidio declares the settlement a preserved monument. The 120 mansions are built before 1800 and their characteristic features are the pebble gates, the stone cisterns and the steps even inside the houses, the beautiful loggias, the carved and painted ceilings. ornaments in the heart of Leonidio and highly preserved buildings the tower houses, such as the tower of Tsikaliotis (1808), the mansion of Politimos (1816) and Katsigiannis (1807), with characteristic arched openings in the walls and battlements. In its cobbled streets you will find several churches and traditional shops, such as a tailor shop, a pharmacy and a bakery, which are among the oldest in Greece, founded in 1864. Carpet workshops with handmade kilims, weaves and tagars made by people who love to bring to life the forgotten art of the loom as well as shops with traditional local products. Do not forget to pass by the organist Manolis Georgostathis shop, who manufactures instruments now in his own place.

tower of Tsikaliotis

Two of the most important monasteries, one of St. Nicholas Sintza and the other of our Lady of Elonas, are clinging to huge red rocks, which reveal the religious element of the place. Follow a small detour to the road leading to Kosmas and reach the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Sintza. In the monastery is kept a piece of spine belonging to a snake, which is said to have been in the monastery and terrorized the faithful pilgrims. But thanks to the Spetses and the Hydra sailors who killed the snake, the Christians escaped from it. The monastery dates back to 1650 and is built in the cavity of a red rock. In this rock there must have been a cave and at the entrance of some large fig tree, hence its name in tsakonika which means synza-fig tree. Near the monastery there are several hermitages. Very close to the monastery is located a remarkable cave, where according to mythology there grew the god Dionysus. Access to the cave is via a rope ladder. The oldest church of Leonidio is Agia Kyriaki with the icon of Timios Prodromos on its iconostasis. The cathedral of Leonidio is the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, where the carved wooden iconostasis was brought by the Prastiots from their place in 1826 to escape the destructive fury of Ibrahim. Other churches are Agia Ekaterini, Panagia Chatzaliou and the Church of Taxiarches.

Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Sintzas

In Leonidio, Easter is celebrated in its own unique way by young and old, who work methodically throughout the year to offer the unique spectacle with the 500 balloons that soar in the sky on the evening of Holy Saturday while the priest chants Christ Is Risen. A unique spectacle comes to life in the sky made more by children's hands, who all year round raise money for the material they will need for their construction. The next day after the hour of love a big feast is set up in the town hall with lamb skewers and traditional dances and there is applauded and the best construction and how high the balloon reached the previous evening. The traffic of the world these days in Leonidio is unprecedented so take care of your stay early. South of Leonidio after passing the lacy shores of Plaka beach we meet Poulithra, a stone-built seaside village built on the slopes of the hill. It invites you to meet it by walking through its streets and admiring its whitewashed houses with its musky courtyards. To the chapel of Agios Georgios located at the other end of the village go by boat and admire the wonderful view. The second coastal coast of Kynouria with excellent tourist infrastructure awaits you in Pulithra. The ancient Prasies known in ancient times as the one of the seven cities that participated in the amphictyony of Calabria, were inhabited from the 16th century BC and relics of the city are located on the hill of Agios Athanasios near Poulithra while outside are ruins of the walls of the ancient civilization of Polichni.

Easter in Leonidio

Following a very difficult road that, however, compensates you again by nature with its greatness, we reach the last village of the area Peleta. Known village for its fine vineyards and wine that is worth enjoying while appreciating the view from above. The magnificent nature challenges you to explore the perfect semi-circular bay of Fokianos that lies at the feet of the Peletes. You will be enchanted by the white color of the pebbles and the turquoise of the sea. Other villages that you will meet on the plateau of Peletes are Amygdalia, Vlissidia and Kounoupia. Near the village Kounoupia is the Monastery of Panagia Kounoupia. The monastery was built in the 10th century AD. on the foundations of an ancient temple. Remarkable icons among them are two Russian ones which are located inside the monastery on the left and right of the Beautiful Gate. A big festival takes place every 15 August. The settlement of Mari with its picturesqueness is said to have been inhabited since the 3rd century BC. The village retains its name from the ancient settlement built on the hill of Kastelia. Vlissidia is built in a ravine and it is suitable for one to go through nature to the picturesque village of Kosmas. The other route from Leonidio to Kosmas also hides many beauties. The Monastery of Elona, which is built and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is literally on the rocks, constantly attracting people of all ages. The icon of the Most Holy Theotokos which is kept in the katholikon of the monastery is painted by the Evangelist Luke whole silvered. The monastery was built in 1300. The monastery celebrates on August 15 and 23.

Monastery of Elona

Before Kosmas we meet beautiful villages dipped in green color with tall fir trees. Paleochora is located very close to Tyros, at a distance of about 9 km at the foot of Parnonas. In the middle of the plateau of Paleochora, the cave cave Dersios has been located since ancient times. In the same place archaeological research discovered tholos Mycenaean tombs. Especially honored in the summer is the church of the assumption, which is a Byzantine monument with a traditional marble bell tower. Outside Paleochora is the monastery of Agioi Taxiarches Mouria, which Ibrahim burned in 1834. In its interior are preserved remarkable icons such as the hagiography of Samaritans and the icon of Taxiarchis. Continuing, this route leads us to the village with the picturesque square and the stone-built fountains of Agios Vasilios. The role of this small settlement during the German occupation and civil war was important. Historically the wider area belonged to ancient Glypia, remains of which barely survive today. On the ruins of the ancient castle of Glypia next to the towering medieval tower is built the Monastery of Paleopanagia Glypia. The monastery was abandoned in 1834. The ruined monastery stands upright during the year, leaving few ruins of an ancient castle around it to remind that there once was the ancient city of Glypia, as mentioned by the historian Polybius.

castle of Glypia

It is worth mentioning that in the Provincial Road Leonidio-Kosmas operates since 2014 a cultural center called "Fabrica Culture" (factory of culture). The center operates in order to promote the rural history and the roads of the sea in the eastern Peloponnese. Also, various events such as the Climbing Festival, which takes place for the 3rd consecutive year under the auspices of the region of Peloponnese and the municipality of south Kynouria. Climbing on the imposing Red Rocks, with over 1400 routes of varying difficulty and the possibility of opening new routes, make Leonidio as the best climbing destination. This year the festival was held in early November with great success.

Kosmas Arcadia

Kosmas Arcadia, as if in a dream passing an enchanted route of huge rocks, bridges and lush vegetation due to the fertile valley of Dafnonas we are led to the village with 7 huge plane trees that cover the Central Square and dating back to 1883. The reason for the village Kosmas that has a lot to say with its long history. From archaeological finds and sources of ancient historians it is referred to as the ancient city named Selinus. The archaeological hoe discovered archaic-era statuettes dedicated to Apollo Maleatis that are kept in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens. On the hill of Profitis Ilias there was a temple dedicated to Apollo.

church of Profitis Ilias, Kosmas

Brave warriors the Kosmites, took part in the revolution of 1821, giving heroic battle for the liberation of the greek nation and paying the price in a hard way by the Turks. The Kosmitis Mayor Giannakis Asimakis along with other rulers of Moria, was put to death in the prisons of Tripoli before the beginning of the revolution of 1821. In a victorious battle of 1943 against the Italians, Kosmites and other residents of neighboring villages took part outside the village, as a result of which the Italian commander Festuccio was killed. After this battle the conquerors burned the whole village, leaving it to the ugly fate of desertion and plunder. Historically it is referred to as very old the Monastery of Saint George the Runner which is just outside the village, on the road to Paleochori. It is referred to as Agios Kosmas and is said to have belonged to the villages Olympia or Olympochoria which were then the villages of Glypia or Selinounta. The development infrastructure project concerning the opening of the road Leonidio-Kosmas-Skala Laconia, was an important event for all the Kosmites. It began in March 1951 and ended after 100 days, exactly on the day of celebration of the patron saints of the village, Agioi Anargyroi. That is why it is called the "100-day road". In the village square it is believed that a shepherd found in a nearby wellspring an icon of Agioi Anargyroi. In honor of this icon the church was built in 1884. The icon of the saints is full of gold and votive offerings. In Kosmas you will also find many chapels, such as the chapel of Profitis Ilias, Agios Georgios, Agia Marina, Agios Dimitrios, Agios Ioannis Prodromos and Agios Ioannis Theologos.

the traditional fountains "Lions"

At 1150 meters altitude, with incredible views and landscapes Kosmas has much to offer. Wander through the streets, relax in the traditional stone fountains, named Lions, drinking their cool water and as it is natural you will have an appetite visit for food the taverns of the square. Local traditional delicacies such as local sausages and traditional galaktoboureko will impress you. The village has a Folklore Museum which exhibits memories of the traditional occupations of the locals, from the art of Yorgatzades or Ktenadon (the manufacturers of combs for looms). Also exhibited are works of wood carving, pottery, weaving and embroidery art, historical documents and archaeological finds.

Kosmas village library

The library of Kosmas is quite rich with 3500 volumes of books, magazines and other publications. It was inaugurated in 1954 and since 1991 it also operates as a gallery, since its collection exhibits works by Greek painters who through their work present the beauty of the region. The library is housed in the village school.

Kosmas

Tour the fir forest of Perdikovrisi on the road to Platanaki and Agios Vasilios. Drink and cool off from its wellspring and then wander to the other even more beautiful forest of Kosmas, that of Kastania. Visit Platanaki and its beautiful square let your gaze into the magic offered by the plateau of Glypia. In the village square is the bust of the great Macedonian hero Captain Foufa who fought in 1907 for the liberation of Ptolemais from the Bulgarians. His memory is honored with pride in his hometown of Platanaki. The real name of the hero was Zacharias Androutsos or Papadas.

chestnut forest of Kosmas

On our next route, which will have as a starting point Tripoli, we will wander to the north side of the prefecture!
I'll be waiting for you...

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