KROKEES LAGIO TRINISA ON THE ROAD TO LACONIC GULF - PART 2

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

After our acquaintance with the Krokees, the nature and the history of the place, it is time to descend, or rather to ascend towards the unknown village of Lagio. We take the provincial road of Krokees-Stefania, we pass the small village just outside of Krokees, Faros, with the beautiful church of Metamorfosi Sotiros.

church of Taxiarches, centre of Lagio

Through olive groves, we walk and admire a wild beauty, pure, unspoiled, calm. It should be said that in winter it is very possible to meet wild boars, while there are many hares, ferrets, foxes, hedgehogs, as well as hawks, thrushes, various small birds that beautify the landscape, several snakes such as vipers and whip snakes, as well as turtles. As we go we reach the fork, where we either go down to Stefania to reach Trinisa, or we turn to Lagio. Now, we're going to Lagio.

Lagio village

After an uphill road with bends, we see a village like a real eagle nest, Lagio. The balcony of the laconic gulf, after anyone arrives there, can literally gaze all the laconic gulf, Taygetos, Parnonas, the villages in the plain, up to the sea, a view unique, incomparable beauty. It is a completely special experience in Lagio the sunrise and the sunset, and when the moon comes out, from a point that has a amazing view to the laconic sea, one can really be surprised by the grandeur of nature.

Lagio

Lagio, a really small village, began to be inhabited by coastal Lakones around 1800, who were in danger from pirates and forced to climb to the mountains. According to stories, the Lagiotes fought on the side of the Maniots during the Greek revolution of 1821, with the base of the Trinisa. Lagio belonged to the municipality of Krokees in the past, but now it also belongs to the municipality of Eurotas. Entering the village, we find the central square of the village, a small square with the church of Taxiarches, being the center of the village, while right next to it there is a small tavern that opens in the evenings and offers an incredible atmosphere especially in the summer, since one can enjoy its wine, its food, chat with the villagers, learn stories about the village, while listening to the sounds of nature,. The village has few inhabitants, but it is an excellent destination for someone who seeks absolute tranquility. Of course, anything you need must have been procured beforehand, since the village does not have any kind of shop, except the small tavern.

olive trees of Lagio

The nature of Lagio is purely mountainous, with olive trees, wild olive trees, oaks, shrubby vegetation and fig trees. Near the village passes the river Ardelis, which flows into the laconic gulf, in the area of Agios Konstantinos, near Selinitsa. Through a rough road, dirt road in some places, one can take the road from Lagio to the area of Chamospilia, beyond Vrysi and from there to go to Gythio, but for these routes we will tell in another journey. To mention simply that the route is for nature lovers, since it is far from any human intervention, a vast olive grove all the way, with dry trees along the way, a wild nature, completely Doric.

Laconic plain

Leaving the village we take the same road from where we came until we come out again at the fork of the road Krokees-Stefania. We go down to the village of Stefania and from there we will find ourselves in Trinisa. Stefania, a small mountain village, when you enter the church of Agios Dimitrios, and then a small square and small taverns. In Stefania, an important celebration is held every summer by the local women's Association, that of the Orange. All the women's cultural associations of Laconia meet at the festival and there are exhibitions of Laconian artists and cultural institutions of Sparta and Laconia. The feast of the famous laconic Orange, framed by culinary competitions, cultural exhibitions, concerts and traditional dances.

Orange feast, Stefania

Continuing our way, we descend south, through orange trees, we begin to feel that the environment is slowly becoming coastal. Passing through an area called Souli and at the same time by various small rivers, branches of the Eurotas which flows east from the Trinisa, we finally reach the Trinisa and we find ourselves in the laconic gulf. A vast sea stretched before us. Our road ends near the church of Agios Giannakis, while we enter the road Skala-Gythio, on the one hand we take direction to Gythio, the gate of Mani, while on the other side we take direction towards Skala. Trinisa is a vast beach, mostly sandy, with plenty of vegetation, consisting of orange trees, eucalyptus trees and poplars. There is also the Vasilopotamos that flows near Trinisa. Golden menida, an endemic species of freshwater fish of the region, as well as eels, water snakes, frogs and other species among the reeds of the river, has been recorded in it.

Trinisa

In the past it was a favorite destination for lovers of free camping, as dozens of caravans in the coastal forests enjoyed the summer in the laconic sea. Scattered on the beach, there are small canteens, which are ready to offer coffee, refreshments, but also food. Various activities are organized on the beach in the summer, such as horse riding and water sports. The area has several beautiful spots, such as Puga beach, near the village of Leimonas, a small beach next to the church of Agios Giannakis, Kalamaki beach, but also Aphrodite bay, a really beautiful beach. Throughout the region of Trinisia one should be careful of the marks left by experts for the nests of caretta caretta turtles and green turtles, which deposit their eggs along the Laconian gulf.

ancient Spartan naval station

Trinisa got their name exactly from this, they are three small islands (tria = three, nisia = islands). A rich fishing spot, with beautiful sandy beaches along, clear waters and away from crowds. Trinisa was the border of Mani with the Ottoman Empire (Mani was never conquered by Ottomans, was independent state inhabited by Maniots, a Laconic tribe). Hence some imposing towers in the area, from where the Maniots guarded Mani from the side of the Eurotas, in order to keep the Mani safe and free. However, an important attraction is the naval station of ancient Sparta in the area. It was one of the most important ports of the Spartans, as it was warlike, but the port also served for commercial transactions. Pausanias mentions that in this sea area, the shell of porphyra (haustellum brandaris) was caught, which served for the red dyeing of fabrics. Porphyria was much sought after as well as valuable in the ancient world.

towers of Trinisa

This is how this magical journey closes, starting from the heart of Laconia, Sparta, passing through the Laconian land and its villages, getting to know the olive groves and orange trees of Laconia, as we end up in the Laconian gulf. A route not easy, but quite beautiful, unique, special, through which one will get to know the history, the nature, the people of the place. We wander in places that are not among the first tourist destinations, but if you visit one, you are sure to own personal destinations, since a place is a living organism, has its people, its nature, its history, its own personality and each one speaks separately in his heart and gives you something special, to whoever wants to coordinate this interaction, a traveller destination.

Puga beach