Thursday 26 March 2020

MOUNTAINOUS ARCADIA ELLINIKO STEMNITSA DIMITSANA

Text and research by Giota Christoforou, translation by Eva Trombetas

Leaving ancient Gortyna, there is a sign that leads to village Elliniko in Arcadia. A village whose name alone says it all. It is Elliniko, as it has all the characteristics of a hellenic village (in greek language is Hellas/hellenic, not Greece/greek), it is located in an amazing location, it stands up there and overlooks the plain of Megalopolis. The other side of the village, the one that leads to Stemnitsa, positively predates you for the other amazing villages you will encounter on your way. Elliniko, formerly called Mulatsi and during the difficult years of the wars, experienced hunger, poverty and abandonment. However, in recent years it is one of the best villages in infrastructure, while developing its upward tourist course. The high level accommodation offers comfortable accommodation, meeting the customer's requirements.



Choose coffee or food in the village square, as any choice you make will be justified by the hospitality and the good quality of the materials. In the central square of Agia Triada, take time to admire the once 3-seater Primary School, the statue dedicated to the soldier who fought for the sake of the country, as well as a bronze statue of Theodoros Kolokotronis, which stands in an imposing and pensive style. The ecclesiastical Museum of Elliniko was founded by the Women's Association in 2009. In the exhibition you will see about 30 icons painted from the beginning of the 20th century, as well as the two magnificent chandeliers that adorn it. The chapel of Profitis Ilias is located at the edge of the village and looks unique with its blue dome, under the blue sky.

Primary School of Elliniko

It is worth walking in the stone alleys of the village, the road will take you to the stone wells, where there is a strong memory of old times, the difficult years in which women carried with difficulty the pitchers with water on their backs. At the entrance of the village from Karytaina to Elliniko, is the Mavrakeios Vocational School, donated by Ioannis Mavrakos in 1965. The school currently operates as a Vocational School of PPC. A little further down the Monastery of Agios Nicodemos, which follows the old calendar and was built in 1975. On your way out, choose local products, myzithres (salty cheese) and hilopites (egg pasta), as well as the famous vanilla honey.

chapel of Profitis Ilias, Elliniko

"Impregnable and invincible country girl", Theodoros Kolokotronis named Stemnitsa. Another mountain village of the enchanting Arcadia, genus female, with the name to mean wooded area, perfectly dipped in cherry trees, walnut trees and plane trees. A painting full of colors, which only nature knows how to paint throughout the year. Stemnitsa is a place where it is worth to wander through the stone alleys, learn its history, in the shops to get to know its art, in the Byzantine churches to admire the perfect hagiographies and of course to taste its sweets and not be surprised, if in the summer seduces your palate the taste of melomakarona and kourabiedes (greek traditional christmas cookies). It is also a tradition of Arcadia, like the diples (traditional Peloponnese's dessert), to make all seasons of the year and accompany social events.

Stemnitsa

Leave the car just before entering the village, for many obvious reasons, it is worth remaining traditional road network, because how else you will wander through the streets. Until the 12th century it was called Ipsos, according to historical information. Known for the art of silver-goldsmithing since the Byzantine years, Stemnitsa stood out with this achievement, as well as the students of the school, making the place proud. The school, housed in a renovated two-storey building, accepts students from all over Greece during the two years of study, provides them with full education and training on practical as well as theoretical courses. Works of silver-goldsmithing art can be obtained from the local shops, as well as from the Folklore Museum of the village.

Stemnitsa's silver-goldsmithery school

The museum is housed in two buildings, donated by Stemnitsa's people, while its exhibits include collections from traditional professions, representation of a traditional Stemnitsa's house, collection of folk art objects, showcases with objects of ecclesiastical silver-goldsmithing, textiles as well as the collection of karagiozis player, Lambros Karadima (karagiozis, traditional greek shadow-puppet theatre). The Folklore Museum is visited by over 10,000 visitors every year. The village is famous for its architecture, as well as for the old houses that were renovated, such as the tower house of Bournazos, built in 1854, which operates today as a luxury hotel. Near the tower house is the school of silver-goldsmithing and the church of the Three Hierarchs (Agioi Anargyroi), with remarkable icons of the 17th century, while opposite the church is the Folklore Museum.

Folklore Museum, Stemnitsa

High in the castle, stands the statue of the fallens, which honors the fighters of the Greek Revolution. From here you can admire the stunning views and the tower house of George Roilou, who was a chieftain in 1821. Near the castle is the church of Agios Nikolaos, which is very old, while an inscription indicates that it was renovated in the 16th century. You will also see the church of Profitis Ilias and Panagia Baferos, with frescoes of the 17th century. Walking through the stone cobbled streets, with a little good imagination you can hear the ganomatis (tinsmith) and the chalkmatades (coppersmith) calling the ladies that it is time to glaze their metal utensils. Highly traditional professions that started from the picturesque Stemnitsa and pass in the neighborhoods of Constantinople, Smyrna and Moscow, but also throughout Greece. So did the bell-smiths, the blacksmiths, and all those craftsmen who knew perfectly the construction of their secret art, which flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries.

church of Panagia Baferos

Another beautiful neighborhood of Stemnitsa is the central square, surrounded by restaurants, traditional cafes, the Town Hall of the municipality of Trikolona, as well as the metropolitan church of Agios Georgios. Ornament for the village the bell tower, made of marbles of Tinos in 1877, but also ornament are the hagiographies of the church, which has been created by Fotis Kontoglou. Just below the square visit the Nikoletopouleio Cultural Center, a former primary school building. In the building is housed the Hastoupios library. Also, many cultural events are organized in the building and it is a jewel for the place.

Stemnitsa's central square and the bell tower

At the entrance of Stemnitsa, coming from Elliniko, built in an ideal location, a combination of stunning views and religious reverence, is the Monastery of Chrysopigi or Zoodochos Pigi, where the first Peloponnesian Senate met for the outcome of the war, making Stemnitsa the capital of Greece for a few days. The monastery was built ten years before the fall of Constantinople (29 May 1453). The hagiographies of the church are amazing. It was recently renovated, with the result that the colors come to life in the frescoes of the church. Traditional events follow with dances, songs and hospitality from the locals. Try to indulge in the caress of nature, through hiking excursions, perfectly organized, by the experienced team of Menalontrail. The first greek certified trail from the European Confederation of Hikers and ninth european certified trail, has been operating in Stemnitsa since June 2015 and offers hiking on eight proposed routes of total length, 75 km.

Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi, Stemnitsa

The beautiful villages of Arcadia are so beautiful, so amazing and so interesting. The road after Stemnitsa leads us to the historic and beautiful Dimitsana. Dimitsana is an adorable place with hospitable residents. As it is built amphitheatrically, the view it offers is not described. The way you look at it, it looks absolutely traditional and stone. The way you smell it, only warmth and tranquility offers you, in winter with the misty landscape that surrounds it, while in spring with the birds that magically welcome the season. Its luxurious accommodation and catering facilities help greatly in its tourist rise.

Dimitsana

Looking back we learn that it was called Ancient Tefthis. Ancient Tefthis for several years, belonged to the rule of Arcadian Orchomenus, but from 370 BC and then, it was under the rule of the newly founded Megalopolis. The ruins of the walls of the acropolis of the ancient city are believed to be on the hill where Dimitsana is built. The traveler Pausanias there saw a statue dedicated to the goddess Athena, which bore a red telamon (belt) on her leg. The legend has to say about this statue that it was made by the chief of the city, Ortynas, to honor the goddess Athena, who helped the place to be saved from the fruitlessness of the earth, but also to heal himself from a heavy illness. The reason for the creation of the statue was the quarrel that Ortynas had with Agamemnon, in order to go to the campaign against Troy. Undaunted Ortynas, he ordered his soldiers to retreat from the battle, and however much the goddess Athena, who presented herself in the form of Melanas, the son of Opas, might try to change his mind, this was impossible. In his anger Ortynas wounded the goddess in the leg. The oracle of Dodona was a catapult for Ortynas, who rushed to make the statue of the goddess Athena. It is reported from historical sources that the city existed from prehistoric times, while it flourished from archaic to roman times. Coins bore the name "Achaean Tethida", at the time of its accession to the Achaean Confederacy.

walls of ancient Tefthis, Dimitsana

The 18th century finds Dimitsana in full economic rise due to the heyday of trade and crafts. During the years of Ottoman occupation, Dimitsana's fighters contributed substantially to the struggle of the Greeks against the Turks. Dimitsana was the armoury of the struggle for freedom, a title which it acquired due to the production of gunpowder. The gunpowder from Dimitsana was widespread from the beginning of the Ottoman occupation 1460 until 1910, when for tax reasons, its commercial production stopped. It was also used for the manufacture of ovens, for hunting cartridges and for the weapons of the Greek Revolution. Fourteen gunmills operated in Dimitsana along Agios Ioannis, under the supervision of the Spiliotopoulos brothers.

gunmills, Dimitsana

Nowadays, visitors can take a tour to the Water Power Museum, for discover their art. The museum is found at the entrance of the city, coming from Stemnitsa. It was founded by the Piraeus Bank Foundation, in order to relay the knowledge and know-how of water power, presenting the four forms used. Traditionally there is a powder mill, a flour mill, a water mill, a tannery, while the miller's house, the tanner's House and a rakokazano (raki cauldron, raki is a traditional greek alcoholic drink) are worth admiring. Also, the museum has the possibility of an audiovisual tour, which informs about the use of running water. The museum has been open since 1997 and is visited every year by 50,000 visitors. Through the museum's website you can learn about its successful actions.

Water Power Museum

Proud of their Dimitsana's origin, were the Germanos III of Old Patras and the patriarch bishop Gregory V. Fighters both for the freedom of the nation, have been important figures for history. The Germanos III of Old Patras, uttered with courage and boldness the three words for the freedom of the Greek people: "Religion, Freedom, Nation". Sending and writing his signature, he issued the message of freedom to the European countries, triggering the start of the liberation struggle in Agia Lavra. His paternal home, at his birthplace, is near the house of Patriarch Gregory V. It is worth visiting this neighborhood in Dimitsana, while at the entrance of the village coming from Stemnitsa, stand imposing on a marble pedestal two marble statues, dedicated to the memory of Germanos III of Old Patras, the work of the Italian sculptor Caparelo in 1930. One imagines sad and depicts Greece, while the other depicts him. His remains are kept in the Municipal Library of Dimitsana.

statue of Germanos III of Old Patras

"If each of us did as good as he could, there would be no unhappy people in the world" - patriarch bishop Gregory V. The house of patriarch Gregory, serves as an ecclesiastical Museum. The traditional renovated house of the patriarch, is two-storey with a stone internal staircase. The first floor consists of a small church in memory of the patriarch, while on the second floor are exhibited sacred vessels, vestments, censers, the icon of St. George dedicated by the bishop in the church of St. George Dimitsanas, a sacristy painted and many other important exhibits. The pious patriarch was recognized as an ethnic martyr by the Orthodox church on April 10, 1921. He was a true and determined campaigner against the Ottoman Turks. His martyrdom, with hanging, on the day of Easter, reveals that the honest blood he shed for his country, makes him a saint of Orthodoxy. The holy relic is located in a prestigious coffin and is kept in the metropolis of Athens. Near the church of Agia Kyriaki, stands proudly the statue of the patriarch.

mansion of patriarch Gregory V

It is worth visiting the church of Agia Kyriaki, patron saint of Dimitsana, the Municipal Library and the Museum of the Greek school. From here you can distinguish the famous city clock. The construction project began in 1900, while the construction was implemented in 1934 and has a height of 27 meters. Marble sculptors from Tinos and local workers offered their work, while expatriates from New York sent the mechanism and the bell.

Dimitsana's clock

The story that unfolds through the thousands of volumes of books that the library hosts on its shelves, takes us to the date 1764, the year of foundation by the monks Gerasimos Gounas and Agapios Leonardos, who had studied at the Evangelical School of Smyrna. During the Turkish occupation, it was one of the four libraries of the Greek state and numbered 5,000 volumes. Today, its shelves number 15,000 volumes, while of the old books about 700 have survived. In addition, the exhibits of the library include folklore and archaeological collection, the saddle of the chieftain Papaflessas and other historical archives. The Greek school was also founded in 1764, as its founders were the same monks, founders and the library. In its halls were educated many scholars and priests, teachers, as well as great names that made history, such as Papaflessas, Deligiannaians, Germanos III of Old Patras, patriarch Gregory V and others.

library of Dimitsana

In the narrow streets of the town you will admire the famous mansions. The tower of Xenios stands out, built in 1850 by Konstantinos Koukouzis, who was a raisin dealer in Patras. The mansion stands out because of its five-storey construction, it is also considered the tallest building in the Peloponnese, as well as because of the amazing painting inside, by fine painters. The mansion is located in the castle district. The house of Antonopoulos, built in 1780, is a historic building, which operated until 1929 as a gymnasium. Also, there was a meeting point of the greek fighters who took part in the Filiki Eteria (Filiki Eteria was a secret organization founded in 1814 in Odessa, the purpose of which was the overthrow of the Ottoman occupation of Greece and the establishment of an independent Greek state).

tower of Xenios

The girls Primary School was built in the early 20th century and is donated by Andreas Syggrou. The girls school also functioned as a Country Court, while it is assumed that it will be repaired as an Archaeological Museum of Dimitsana. It is located opposite the church of Agios Efthymios and patriarch Gregory V. In the place of the temple, there was the house of Osiomartyras Efthymios, as Dimitsana is his place of origin. According to tradition, the saint went to Mount Athos. There he met the patriarch Gregory V, where with the help of his own and God, through prayer, repentance and ascetic life, he became a monk. On the day of Palm Sunday, on March 19, 1814, the monk appeared with palm and crosses before the Turkish pasha and before him converted to Christianity. The martyr after suffering horrible tortures, was led to death by hanging. His memory is honored on March 22, the day of his death. The church of St. George has frescoes of Byzantine style and the year of its acquisition is the distant 1720. This is where Germanos III of Old Patras officiated, as the parish belonged to his family. He also dedicated books and other church monuments to the temple. The first cathedral of the city was the stone-built church of Agios Charalambos, which first opened in 1832. It is located in the square with the beautiful fountain, with the inscription that reads "Stavroula's square". Stavroula Toula, was a benefactor of the place and the aid of the church of Agios Charalambos.

church of Agios Charalambos

In Dimitsana you will pass by fountains with historical inscriptions, cross arched bridges and even see monuments of high priests who offered much during the Greek Revolution. One of these is the bust of metropolitan of Thessaloniki Iosif, who came from Dimitsana and specifically the Antonopoulos family, which took an active part in the fight against the Turks. He was hanged, as were many other high priests by the Turks. You will also meet the monument of the national martyr metropolitan Dimitsanas, Philotheos Hatzis, of Cypriot origin, who was a virtuous, educated and a fighter. His martyrdom a few days before the fall of Tripolitsa, from hunger and deprivation by fraudulent script of the Turks, reveals his blameless personality, his love for Greece and unlimited dignity. To the Dimitsanites and throughout Gortynia he invested in the education of the inhabitants, he was a beloved man and his first work was the foundation of the Episcopal Palace.

monument of Philotheos Hatzis

Dimitsana in 2009 acquired a conference center, which is the work of the professor of the National Technical University of Athens, Gerakis. Cultural events and conferences take place in the two-level amphitheatrical hall, with a capacity of 210 seats. Rich and blessed, it is a remarkable tourist resort for the Peloponnese. The luxurious resort located nearby, the traditional guesthouses, activities, events, religious events that continue through actions and initiatives of clubs, make it the first in the list of top destinations. It is suitable for visiting all year round. If you find yourself in winter and snowy Dimitsana, visit the ski resort of Mainalos and enjoy skiing on its slopes. If you come here on  Carnival's days, revives the tradition of Makaronas. On March 25, torchbearers are organized. At Easter, the central square skewers the obelias traditionally, while throughout the Holy Week, events are planned at the water power museum. The feast for the celebration of the patron saint, Agia Kyriaki, on July 7 with traditional dances. Also August is a month of cultural events. Hikes are organized in the small Mount Athos of the Peloponnese, as well as various forms of alternative tourism in Lousios river.

Mainalo's ski center

After tasting the gastronomy of the place in the restaurants, and the Greek breakfast in the guesthouses, before leaving, buy local products, and folk art items. Selected pasta, aromatic herbs, wine and raki, cheese products, aromatic spoon sweets and many other dishes will remind you of your trip there.

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