Monday 23 March 2020

KARYTAINA AND THE MOUNT ATHOS OF ARCADIA

Text and research by Giota Christoforou, translation by Eva Trombetas

"This plain is girdled by high mountains, and in the middle stands the pointed ridge on which the castle stands. From afar it looks very tall and flashy. At the time when the sun reigns it shows two or three times higher than it is, so that it pencils in the golden light that the king of the sky scatters all around him, hidden behind him " - Fotis Kontoglou (Greek writer, painter and icon painter)



Beginning this journey, the beautiful purple anemones of Karytaina's castle came to my mind. In a short time they will bloom, a sign of the coming of spring, and those dominions of nature up there in the castle of Kolokotronis await again the anniversary of the battle of Karytaina. The Frankish castle was given as a baronet in 1245 to the ruler Frank Geoffrey de Brigneux and has a triangular shape. It was part of the Byzantine Empire when it passed into the hands of Andronikos Palaiologos in 1320. After the passage of the Venetians, it was occupied by the Turks until 1821. In 1827 Theodoros Kolokotronis built around the walls and a church that dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. From here, the first victorious battle of the Greeks, led by Plapoutas, Deligiannis and Theodoros Kolokotronis, took place on March 27, 1821. Today the historic castle seems challenging to the visitor with everything it has to say. The bust of Kolokotronis is located shortly after the entrance of the castle as well as the renovated tower of Matzourogiannis, which is believed to have been built during the late Byzantine period and is located at the northern foot of the hill. The tower of Leventena, east of the castle, built during the Byzantine Empire, recently renovated, is used for cultural purposes.

tower of Leventena

At the foot of the castle is the Byzantine church of Agios Nikolaos, erected in 1100 with rich painting of Byzantine art. In the churchyard is the cemetery. In 1460, the Turks, respecting the holy site, gave permission to Christians to attend the divine liturgy only during the night, ordering that if their command is not followed and the day lights up and they find Christians in the temple, then they will kill them all. In the last two years after the restoration of the church, the custom of liturgy in honor of St. Nicholas, which takes place in the early hours, is revived again. The Byzantine church of Zoodochos Pigi, which dates back to the 14th century, is also a historical monument for Karytaina and you can see it going up the road leading to the village square.

church of Agios Nikolaos

Walking along the cobblestone streets of Karytaina, on its ascents and descents, the visitor can admire the stone houses which demonstrate the picturesqueness of the settlement. The square has dining areas, which are filled with people especially on weekends and in the summer months. Also in the village there are hostels as well as a hotel unit at the entrance of the village.

Karytaina

Going up after the square on your right you meet the majestic church of the Annunciation. The church has been rebuilt in 1866 and inside it are kept sacred relics of great value. Theodoros Kolokotronis has donated the Holy Gospel, of Byzantine writing, which is given to folk pilgrimage, on the day of Good Friday. The epitaph is a unique masterpiece of art. It was donated to the church by George I. Georgantopoulos, who worked in Odessa, Russia, and to make it so unique it took 10 years. Wonderful in their art and the 3 candoualas, which have been built in Galata of Constantinople in 1880. In the courtyard of the church admire the huge bell tower and then climb up the hill to worship the chapel of Prophet Elias.

church of Annunciation

Going downhill, either from central street, passing by the square where the statue of the legislator and Minister of Justice under the government of Eleftherios Venizelos, Karytinos Nikolaos Dimitrakopoulos, or from the paved path, you meet the stone Elementary School, which operates today and opposite it the church dedicated to the patron saint of the village, Agios Athanasios. Shortly before the end of the Venetian occupation around 1715 and during the period of the second Turkish occupation, when people were overworked and suffering from slavery, God sent a divine gift to Arcadia. Agios Athanasios or else Korfiatis or Korfianos who was born in Corfu, spent the first years of his life in Karytaina, but also in neighboring Christianoupolis. He undertook the difficult task of educating young people, since he was well aware of their illiteracy, as he also knew that the Venetians were trying to convert the people to Catholicism. Great is his work and his miracles. His role, both inspiring and guiding, gave courage in these difficult times, in favor of Orthodoxy, helped people to stand tall. For his work and miracles he is listed as a saint in our church, which honors him on May 17. The relics of the saint are found in the Monastery of Timios Prodromos near Dimitsana and Stemnitsa.

Prophet Elias chapel

"If you don't haunt a human, you can't built bridge. And this is the lady of the castle!"And the witch persuaded the master to bury his lady alive within the walls of the arched bridge, because there was no other way to keep the bridge solid. The Byzantine bridge of Alpheios was built in 1440 and the chapel located in its bowels is dedicated to the birth of the Virgin Mary and is considered unique both in terms of its construction and in terms of its protection to the people and the means of transport that crossed it. The newest bridge is at a crucial point, as it offers passage to Ilia, Messinia, Lycaean mountain and Megalopolis.

castle of Karytaina

Ιn the age of the drachm,in the banknote of the five thousand drachm, the bridge also had its place of honor. Fairies who enchant with their beauty and who take your word if you speak to them, sat on the banks of the river Alpheios and beyond the watermill of Halul Aga. Today the three millstones that operated in the mill are preserved. Numerous cultural events are organized each year by the clubs and the local community, such as the representation of the battle of Karytaina, the revival of the custom for the celebration of St. Nicholas, the traditional threshing and reaping organized in the heart of summer, with the help and participation of students and teachers of the school. In addition, a big celebration in honor of St. Athanasios Christianoupoleos takes place every year on May 17th.

bridge of Karytainas

Karytaina well traveled, colorful by the colors of nature, nostalgic, historical how many great wrote about you. Whoever met you, he was excited and will still come to wander in your alleys.

old traditional house, Karytaina

For people looking for relaxation and tranquility, it is enough to stay in Karytaina for a couple of days. For those looking for action, they can be initiated into the paths of alternative tourism, through activities related to Lousios river. Dimitsanitiko river springs from a high mountain in Lagadia and heads towards Karkalou. The upper part is called Lousio, while the lower part is called Gortynio. On the route that leads from Karytaina to Atsiholo village, we meet the first stone bridge of the river, where descents to the river with canoe kayak and rafting are organized, under the supervision of experienced guides. Sixteen in number are the stone bridges of Lousios, where Zeus bathed in its waters, but also Proetus who begged the goddess Artemis to save his daughters. Poplars and willows, oaks, myrtles, plane trees, rich fauna and flora, with innumerable reptiles and birds are the inhabitants of the river. In 1997 it was declared a protected area by the Ministry of Culture. Its benefits in the surrounding areas are numerous. The mills that operated favored the production of tannery, the grinding of cereals, the use of water presses, as well as the Gunpowder Mills for the production of gunpowder. As for the gorge, it is worth crossing it. Its length of 15 km and its passage is really of great interest. The path has special markings and lasts about 2.5 hours. Inside, nest steep rocks and natural caves that host monasteries and hermitages. The Monastery of Philosophos, the Monastery of Timios Prodromos, the Monastery of Hemyalon, the Monastery of Kalami and Agios Andreas Gortynos.

Lousios river

The old monastery of Philosophos was founded in 967 in the ravine of the river Lousios by the secretary of Nikiforos Fokas, whose real name was Ioannis Lampardopoulos, but they called him philosopher. It is a wonderful example of Byzantine architecture of the 10th century. The monastery is located 4 km south of Dimitsana and is dedicated to the assumption and celebrates on August 23. In the 17th century, The New Philosophos monastery was founded, which is 400 meters from the old monastery. The frescoes of the Monastery are a set of paintings of transcendence, which is due to the builders of Epirus and the initiative of the fathers of the church. However, it is worth mentioning that the completion of the hagiography of the church was carried out by Mavraidis Pasha Farmakis from Stemnitsa, who converted to Christianity. Its wood-carved iconostasis is of particular beauty.

old monastery of Philosophos

In the secret school of the monastery the children learned letters during the Turkish occupation, while later it functioned as one of the most important priestly schools. It is worth mentioning that it was from here that Patriarch Gregory V graduated. Someone can visit the monastery, either from Dimitsana or from the village of Elliniko. Important heirlooms are preserved in the National Library of Athens, which are two old manuscripts (the works of Vasilios and the Gospel of Vlachomanolis to which the members of the Friendly Society swore). Other manuscripts are preserved in the library of Dimitsana.

old monastery of Philosophos

Nearby is the Monastery of St. John the Baptist and is honored every year on August 29. It is a monastery whose role was prominent during the Greek revolution of 1821, with a role both charitable and religious. The frescoes of the katholikon date back to the 16th century AD according to Fotis Kontoglou, while they were created based on Cretan art. Very close to the monastery is the church dedicated to Agios Athanasios Christianoupoleos, while inside the church are kept the relics of the saint, as we said. Looking at the vollified door of the monastery since the attack of the Albanians in 1776, the visitor feels awe and admiration for the monks who faced the enemies at that time, with bravery and courage. According to written testimonies that endured the time and were well kept under the supervision of worthy people, Monk Kallistratos drafted a code in which he mentions the dissolution of the monastery in 1834 and that this implies the indifference of people towards the holy vessels and relics of the monastery, its priceless treasure and the unacceptable treatment of the relics of St. Athanasius Christianoupolis. But the monastery by royal decree reopened in 1838.

Monastery of Timios Prodromos

The monastery is male and the monks take care and care of the visitor in the best way. Do not neglect to write in the visitors ' book of the monastery your kind words, while they offer you coffee. In Archontariki the visitor will admire important books, old photographs and portraits of Abbots as well as letters of Theodoros Kolokotronis. It is located along with the old monastery of the philosopher Metochi of St. John the Baptist. Access is by road from Dimitsana to Stemnitsa or from the village of Elliniko and from the Monastery of Philosophou, crossing the well-preserved path on foot.

Monastery of Timios Prodromos

The monastery of Panagia Emyalon, dominates majestic, just below the Monastery of Philosophos. The monastery is dedicated to the Holy Theotokos and celebrates the birth of the Virgin Mary on September 8. It was founded in 1608 by the brothers Kontogianni, who came from the village of Aimyaloi, from where it took its name. The monastery is also named Panagia Chrysomallitissa. In the winepress of the monastery there is a marble inscription that bears the drama that the Kolokotronians experienced from the betrayal of the monk. The Kolokotronians asked the monk of the monastery to take care of them with food and wine, but also to hide them from the Turks. But the friar was annoyed, as it seems, by the way they asked him, he was afraid of their threat that if he betrayed them they would cut off his head and hang it for the crows to eat and so he secretly sent the friar to Dimitsana, to tell the Turks. In 1806, during which there was a great outbreak of kleftouria (Greek wars against Turks), the extinction of the generation of Kolokotronians took place. Theodoros Kolokotronis, who was watching the tragedy of his own people from the opposite side of the monastery, could not intervene to help them and said: "We can not fit here anymore place". Then this event in the soul of Kolokotronis only one thought prevailed and that concerned the freedom of Greece. With proper strategy he devoted himself to the struggle for the liberation of the Greece. In 1925 the monastery was joined by the Monastery of John the Baptist and in 1934 it was declared a National Monument.

Monastery of Panagia Emyalon

On the west side of the river Lousios, in the green landscape, the new monastery of Kalamiou emerges beautiful. The monastery is dedicated to the assumption and celebrates every year on August 15. At the back of the monastery are the ruins of the old monastery, while inside the cave are kept bones and skulls. The katholikon of the old monastery is painted by Cretans with representations from the Old Testament and the Last Supper. The church was painted in 1705, but the Monastery, according to historical sources, dates back two centuries earlier. The monastery is located in the village of Atsiholos, very close to ancient Gortyna and the sanctuary of Asclepius.

Monastery of Kalamiou

Near the archaeological site of Asclepius, is the Byzantine church of Agios Andreas. The church is believed to have been built on the site of a Roman building, based on ancient building material. The temple dates back to the 12th century. Next to the church is the old watermill of Kokkoris and the stone bridge of Polygenis. A little further up the sign reads ancient Gortyna. You are in front of a very important ancient city, in which the most important baths of the ancient world have been discovered, which operated with a heating system, unique invention of our ancient ancestors. Here the god Asclepius was worshiped, whose temple also existed. In the same area were discovered burial sites, two Asklepieia, public buildings, thermal spaces, while there was at an altitude of 480 meters, strong fortification of two citadels, facing each other. There was a pass for the Spartan athletes, who followed this route to compete in the Olympic Games. The city was founded by Gortys, who was the great-grandson of king Arcadas. It is also believed to be identified with ancient Gortyna located in the plain of Messara in Heraklion, Crete.

ancient Gortyna of Arcadia

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