Sunday, 22 March 2020

KROKEES LAGIO TRINISA ON THE ROAD TO LACONIC GULF - PART 1

Text and research by Nikos Aivalis, translation by Eva Trombetas

Starting from the capital of Laconia, Sparta, we take the road to the historical village Krokees, from there to the small village of Lagio, while finally we reach the laconic gulf and Trinisa, having crossed the laconic plain, near the regions of Eurotas, between Taygetos and Parnonas, the two beautiful mountains, discover the laconic nature.



Taking the Sparta - Gythion road, we go to the village of Krokees, we go at the exit of the provincial road of Krokees - Dafni, which is parallel to the river Eurotas. Following the road, at some point we will go to another exit, which will put us into the village. All the way, the first thing you realize is how blessed the laconic plain is, as you see olive groves to where the eye reaches. After a narrow and winding road we enter Krokees and reach the central square. Krokees used to be a municipality, the municipality of Krokees, but after the Kapodistrias program and the Union of communities, they joined the municipality of Eurotas.

Krokees

Krokees is another ancient region. The area was inhabited by Pelasgians, Achaeans and along the way by Dorians (ancient greek tribes). An important archaeological discovery is the bust of Dioskouri, on a marble slab which is found in the central square of the village, something that testifies that Dioskouri, Castor and Pollux, the mythical sons of Zeus, were protectors of ancient Krokees. The raids of the northern peoples Goths, Avars and Slavs led to withering and desolation of the area, since the persecuted Krokeates and the surrounding Lakones fled to the south of the prefecture, mainly in Monemvasia. During the Turkish occupation, in Krokees there were three towers of the Turks in the village. Commanders of these towers were the Turkobardouniotes, fierce warriors of the Turks. The towers were captured in 1821 by the Krokeates, persecuting the Turks in Tripolis.

marble slab of Dioskouri, central square of Krokees

From ancient times the Krokees were famous for one thing, the Krokeatis lithos, lapis lacedaemonius (lithos = stone). A volcanic dark green stone with spots. It was a sought-after stone by the Mycenaeans for the decoration of baths and the construction of vases. It was used in prehistoric times mainly for the creation of elaborate vases, while objects of Krokeatis stone were found in the acropolis of Mycenae, as well as in excavations in the palace of king Minos in Knossos, Crete, while the same stone was used in the baths of Corinth, as well as in the tomb of the Spartans and Thespians in Thermopylae. In Roman times the stone continued to be sought after, as the Romans extracted the stone from quarries, witness to this are the several artifacts in Rome from this stone, such as paintings in the Archaeological Museum of Palazzo Massimo, the basilicas of St. Peter and Santa Maria Maggiore, as well as other luxurious buildings of Rome, such as the palace of Emperor Domitian, where the stone also exists. Nowadays one can follow the sign just outside Krokees and go to the stone quarries of Krokeatis, to admire this jewel of nature.

Krokeatis stone (lapis lacedaemonius)

Within the village you will find the churches of Agios Nikolaos and Agia Kyriaki, while just outside the center of the village, the churches of Agia Varvara, Agios Dimitrios and Agioi Theodoroi. Just outside the village there is a chapel of Prophet Elias, which was built after the Greek revolution of 1821, about 1829.

church of Agios Nikolaos

In the center of the village, specifically in the central square of the village, we will find several shops, taverns, cafes, small mini markets, everything that is needed to give life to the place. It is worth trying the local cuisine, which is rich in flavors. In the village square, almost all the events of the village take place, festivals, all kinds of events, such as the famous carnival of Krokees, which is the oldest carnival of Laconia. This important cultural work of the Philharmonic band of Krokees, founded in 1925, is present at all events of the village.

carnival of Krokees

An attraction of the area is the Pavlakos tower located on a small hill of the village, but one of the most important sights of the area is the house of the famous poet, Nikiforos Vrettakos (1912 - 1991). He even attended the same school, in Gythio, with another great Laconas poet from Monemvasia, Yannis Ritsos. Nikiforos, one of the greatest Greek poets, who was besides a poet, a prose writer, a translator, and an essayist. It was nominated 4 times for the Nobel Prize in Literature, and had many distinctions, such as the first State Prize for Poetry, The Urani Prize, the award of the Society of Sicilian letters and arts, excellence in letters from the Academy of Athens, the Gold Pegasus Medal of the Panhellenic Association of writers, the Holy Cross Award from the Patriarchate of Alexandria and Africa, honored by European universities, as well as others. Nikiforos took part in the Greek-Italian war in 1940, commanded by Laconas colonel of infantry, Konstantinos Davakis. Brettakos was recruited on the front line and risked being killed on the hill of Kleisoura. Nikiforos is distinguished for a melancholy in his poems, but he is more distinguished as a praefect of love for nature and human, a praefect of pure love, a love pure and innocent. Taygetos played a big role in the psychosynthesis of Nikiforos Vrettakos, a mountain that Nikiforos loved and felt more like home than his own house. But we can say with confidence that Taygetos also loved this great man and poet, since it was a source of inspiration and consolation for him. The memory of Nikiforos is celebrated every year in Krokees with Vrettakia, running races in memory of the poet.

bust of Nikiforos Vrettakos
(I love so I exist)

Apart from the cultural and historical data of Krokees, the region is also known for something else, something in which man and nature since ancient times, together produce in a perfectly harmonious coexistence and interrelated love between earth and man. The production of oil. As mentioned above, the nature of the Krokees is purely agricultural and the economy of the land is based on this, with the Agricultural Cooperative of Krokees and the people of the land producing extra virgin olive oil which has a Protected Designation of Origin, while as we mentioned in another article, the extra virgin olive oil is produced from "Myrtolia" and "Athinolia" varieties, which are grown only in the area of Krokees. Extra virgin olive oil means that it has the lowest free fatty acids, therefore it is the healthiest for the human body.

athinolia

In the second part of our journey, we will continue to the village of Lagio and Trinisa, we are waiting for you to travel together.

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